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Updated: 4 hours 52 min ago

Glassing - Petrel Build - E9

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 16:18
Glassing - Petrel Build - E9 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 16:18

Today I fiberglass. In this video I talk about the cleaning up stain bleed-through and then get fiberglassing. I discuss the time line of glassing and what I use for fill coat

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

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hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade in this bill I'm
working on a petrel love stripped old
petrol which is a 17 foot
high-performance sea kayak and building
this for a customer if you are just
tuning into this series
this build is something I actually did
over a year ago so this footage is a
little bit old I'm just now getting
around to editing it and I've just
stained the boat and I'm now ready to
fiberglass so let's watch how I did that
so it's 9:00 in the morning on glass and
day and I've got the heat cranked up
it's starting to warm up in here I need
to roll out the glass and you know get
ready to apply some epoxy before I can
do that there's a few places on my
accent strips here where I get a little
bit of bleed in under the tape I want to
clean that up I'm really pleased with
how the CA glue resists worked on the
accent stripes on the deck those came
out perfect just a tape alone here on
the hull was not bad you know most of it
is perfectly clean but there's a few
places was a little bleed through think
maybe in the future I will use the CA
glue on the whole length I just didn't
feel like doing that given the length of
the scene there but a little bit of prep
work and then I'll be glassing so here I
have a little bit of bleed through here
I have a little chisel that I put a
little bit of sandpaper on it doesn't
look like much it's a little bit 120
grit sandpaper it's about the width of
the strip this bleed through is very
thin it doesn't take much to actually
get rid of it so I'm just going to come
here the sandpaper
doesn't make it go away completely but
it really feeds it down so we'll be
really unnoticeable
is around 10:30 now
I don't have to get everything ready
the hole first and then the deck
it's just past 11:30 depth the hull and
the deck done and the temperature in
here is about 80 degrees I'm not sure
what that is
Celsius but pretty warm it's wet out
nicely everything looks good they go to
crunch up and so I have a nice matte
finish I don't want it to look glassy
she's got a few glossy spots but that's
okay it's all looking good I will
probably come back right after lunch and
give this a fill cup so it's just about
2 o'clock now so the epoxies had a
couple hours secure it's a little bit
harder than it needs to be but it's
still soft I'm going to put fill coats
and both the hull on the deck but the
hull is just going to get a light-filled
coat I'm going to put another layer of
glass on it later after it put put the
deck and Hall together and get the stems
on put another layer of glass on on the
deck I'm going to give it a full fill
coat actually trying to bury the weed I
will spread some epoxy on the hall and
then squeegee it off and with the deck I
will brush it on heavy and triangle a
nice levels coat on let's just get to it
looks like the camera stopped recording
about 10 minutes ago maybe but got the
full cone over the whole deck I hit it
with the blowtorch to pop bubbles level
it out nicely the hall has a squeegee
down on bilko again this is just to
start to fill the weave so when I put
the next coat of cloth on I can sand it
without sanding into the glass otherwise
after I squeegeed it to a matte finish
there's deep pores in between the fibers
of the yarns that you can't get to with
the sandpaper and so when you go to D
closet and get a better mechanical bond
you can't sand it sufficiently to really
get them you know it's fine but not as
good as it could be so by putting this
spill coat on I have filled down into
the pores in the texture I might just
touch the top of the wheel but I won't
be sanding down just a note here
I used web system 105 resin and 207
hardener for the fill coat I find it
levels better than mas that I used to
wet out the cloth I found the mas West
out the cloth really nicely doesn't have
a lot of smell and when I go to do the
fill Co I just find the 207 works a
little bit better in that application
so that's an overview of the
fiberglassing process to recap I rolled
out the cloth I smoothed out the
wrinkles pulling on the cloth a little
bit and brushing it down with a chip
brush and then I wet out the cloth using
mas low viscosity epoxy resin I let that
set up for a little while
and then I applied a Philco on the hull
I applied a sort of light fill coat that
I squeegeed on just enough to fill up
the pores of the texture of the fabric
and on the deck I did a heavy fill coat
where I really tried to fill it up
completely in in the step towards the
final finish so for the wet out I used
an MAS epoxy some call it mas and on the
fill coat I use West's systems using the
207 hardener with the 105 resin I find
the MAS wets out the cloth more easily
and doesn't smell much I used to working
with it and does a beautiful job but I
find for the fill coats mas works fine
if that's what you got use it it works
great but the west's system seems to
level out a little bit better makes a
smoother finish which just requires a
little less sanding when it comes time
to do that you know the difference is
minimal but it makes a difference so
that's why I did that so in the next
episode I will work on the combing and
start to clean up the inside you'll see
how far I get again this is a video from
over a year ago I forget what did I even
have in the can so how long the video is
depends on what I've got there so if you
enjoyed this episode and you like seeing
how these boats go together I really
appreciate your support any kind of
support you can provide is really
appreciated just liking this video helps
the exposure of it lets more people see
it in the more
let's see it the more exposure I get and
I can earn more through the ads and you
know it just gets the word out there and
otherwise follow hit subscribe turn on
notifications all that stuff I also have
a patreon page where if you want to
provide some direct support towards
these videos that's an opportunity to do
that there but really what pays for
these videos the most is if you buy
planes or my book I've got two books
actually on the process of strip
building boats one specifically on
building sea kayaks another on generally
about building strip build small boats
and that boat includes the offsets for
this petrel design so if you want to
build one of these petrels that's a
great resource you get the book as 2295
something like that and that includes
all the offsets which are members which
you can graph out and draw out the plans
full size yourself otherwise you go to
my website Gilliam at kayaks calm I've
got full-size plans with this boat and a
lot of other designs there and with
those planes you can take the sheet of
paper glue it to a sheet of half-inch
MDF and cut out around the lines and
you'll have a set of forms to start
building your own boat and you will also
find a lot of my videos there with
descriptions on what's in it above and
beyond the whatever voiceover I did in
the video and there's a lot of
information there about the whole
process of building boats so any support
you can provide is deeply appreciated so
until the next episode again thanks for
watching and happy paddling

Stripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:46
Stripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:46

Adding strips to one side of the front deck.


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Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license ( Artist:

good morning welcome back to another day
in the Guillemot kayaks boat shop I'm Nick
Schade. today we will be doing more
stripping go figure
I'm getting really close to finishing up
the stripping here today I'll be
primarily working on the front deck the
back deck I'll leave for another day
but I should be able to get mostly up
one side of the front deck you've seen
most of this before so I'm not going to
spend a lot of time talking there's not
too much to say but I'll show where I am
with the cockpit and obviously I don't
need to strip over the cockpit I'm gonna
cut a big hole there in the long run so
no point laying down a bunch of wood
there and trying to make it all fit and
then come back and saw it all out again
I put several reference lines on these
forms to help me figure out where things
are happening and as guides for
stripping under here there's some
diagonal lines at this angle that
defines the chine or feature line
between the side of the boat and the
back deck of the boat up here I've got
some slots where the recess of the
calming is going to be over here these
slots also define where the recess of
the calming is going to be and there's a
hole in here that's where the edge of
the recess is going to be we've cut that
hole in there so when I saw through here
I'll just saw right through those forms
and that hole will give clearance for
the saber saw or jigsaw to cut through
there the cockpit is in this area
so I've already stripped beyond the
cockpit here on both sides and so now
the strips can start to get shorter
substantially shorter here I'll probably
bring it a little bit long out into this
area and so as I'm peeling off the tape
just as a to help remind me where I can
go I'll leave this tape on here in other
words the strip will end right before
this tape and so pull all the tape off
so that'll be my guide for how far to
run the next strip
now this is where I switch to just doing
one side at a time if I were to run a
strip up here on this side it would end
up hitting this strip and so this is
interfering with getting a tight fit on
that side and so basically this strip
has crossed the center line a little bit
so from here on out I'm just going to
add strips on one side having them
overhang the center line sufficiently
that I can cut them off and trim that
center line to a nice straight line
without having any gaps you may have
noticed that I wasn't stopping to do the
hot melt glue stitches along here you
may even see some places here where the
yellow glue between the strip's does not
appear to be completely dry it's not
completely dry where it squeezed out but
in between the strips where it got
pressed and squeezed tightly together it
stacked up sufficiently but I can take
the tape off as soon as I'm done with
one side I can switch to the other side
and take the tape off and keep on going
however now I'm only going to be working
on one side so I won't have enough time
for that glue to set up between
finishing up one strip and adding the
next strip so I'll end up at this point
starting to add those hot melt glue
stitches as I go that way it can take
the tape off and add a new strip before
that yellow carpenters glue between the
strip's has fully set up
this is a really tight radius up here
which means that it's going to take a
lot of beveling to get a tight seam
between this strip and the next strip
you see this strips at an angle like
this and I'm holding the Robo bevel at
an angle like this that means the angle
between this strip and the next strip is
pretty extreme
all right we're making progress now
I'm gonna break for lunch and continue
on with this afterwards or see how far
we get I think I got to be able to cover
all the way to the centerline today and
the excellent
okay I've used up all the strips I set
aside for the side of the boat but I
still have here's the centerline right
here and here's the centerline right
there so the line crosses these strips
right up in there so I've got a little
bit left to go I forget exactly where
the cockpit comes through here I think
it comes right through like this and
basically just kisses this form you know
so if I stuck one more strip there and I
would cover that centerline there but
just to make sure I'm I think I'll put a
couple strips there I know there's not
going to be much showing there there's a
strip here running out to maybe about
there and then mirror image on the other
side so I want to pick some wood that's
going to be similar to what we've got
here and so what I've got is these are
the off cuts from the forward end of the
strips running in so this is strip 26 26
25 24 so here I have strip 24 25 and 26
and again that's the forward end of
these three strips so those I know those
are going to be similar in tone to
what's already here just because they're
part of the same strip but I do have a
little bit of a dark streak running
right through here running up to here
and these are quite light in color they
don't have a whole lot going on so I cut
these strips all off right here and I
have this bundle of strips back here
that are just the off cuts from that by
the way a lot of waste when you're doing
this book matching because all of this
gets cut off and
left but let's see what we have here for
color wise so if I find strip 26 this is
strip 26 it's got some of those same
streaks that we see in here your strip
25 here I'm just looking for some strip
so they're gonna match color wise just
across that center line and I think what
I'll end up doing I run from here back
to here with this strip that's 20 strip
likewise strip 25 will have a set of
strips that the tiny little triangle we
see in here will look like it's matching
pretty well with the surrounding strips
I think that's what I'm gonna do is just
put in those two strips so this is strip
26 25 and we'll cut these two strips so
those are the next strips that are gonna
come in here and that should be plenty
to cross that center line
and crossing the center line they're
stuck down now chances are excellent
that none of this strip here will end up
in the finish boat the cockpit will come
up and trim off most of that and it's
likely that is just gonna be a little
bit of this strip showing but now with
that green going on it should be fine so
you know I in the best of all possible
worlds I would have included a couple
more strips to in this bundle to get all
the way there but frankly you know I'm
using two feet of this strip here and
you know there's going to be one
probably less than an inch of this strip
showing here and so it's kind of a waste
of a full length strip to just fill in
that tiny little bit but you know if
we're really trying to maintain the book
match to the bitter end that's what we
could do but nobody's gonna see this
it's gonna be a tiny little sliver there
and if I've got matching from the other
side so I mirror this little piece in
there it's gonna be awesome so that was
pretty quick this morning we started
about down here and you know 1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 strips on this side
today that's pretty good progress but I
think it's cool you're starting to see
the pattern come out here I've got this
sort of dark streaks coming down like
this and converging here and when we get
the other side matching that I think
it's really going to look awesome this
is where
all the hard work of trying to figure
out the matching pattern and so forth
starts to pay off and tomorrow when we
get fitted on the other side I think
it's really gonna looks like I had a few
issues that almost threw me off but I
was able to catch them in time and it's
looking awesome
so if you're enjoying and watching this
series please hit subscribe you know if
you've watched all the way through this
video give me a thumbs up give me a like
if you want to give me any more support
go to patreon and the token amount there
is really appreciated
so next episode we will trim down the
center line and start stripping up the
other side and there's going to be an
accent strip going in on that center
line and I haven't exactly figured out
how I'm going to do that but tricky
thing about that is I want the center of
the center line centered on the center
line and if I have a accent strip of a
certain width I need to make sure that I
offset the center line sufficiently by
that with that accent line so it ends up
the center line is centered on the
center line if you're looking forward to
that and it subscribe and until next
episode thanks for watching and happy

Pattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:37
Pattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:37

Getting back on track with the book match pattern after discovering a mistake.


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Oh welcome back to the guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade so yesterday I
discovered that a couple of my strips
were out of sequence in the book match
that was not fun what I ended up doing
was taking my heat gun and softening the
yellow carpenters glue and using a putty
knife and peeling those strips off so I
stripped off the strip's and now I have
taken and taking those strips and lay
them out on my bench with all the other
strips just to check and see what the
sequence really should have been and
what I can do to fix it and it looks
like I had strip 11 from one side
swapped with strip strip 11 from the
other side and that ended up flipping
over the grain and just making things a
little bit out of whack now I've laid
them out
swapped them back where they're supposed
to be and it looks like it's going to
match up just fine so here's the layout
of the strips this is what I did to
check to see what was going on and this
is as I originally had them laid out and
if you look over here here we've got
grain coming in like this and this grain
comes in like this and so there's this
these two strips are sort of mirror
image of each other not a perfect match
but pretty close so this is the
offending strip and over here this is
the offending strip over here so what I
determined was that this strip actually
belongs over here and this strip
actually belongs over here approximately
like this now we've got the dark spot
going like that and grain going like
that and got a little hump here a little
hump here so this is about where it's
supposed to line up and likewise this
one over here everything's oriented the
right way we've got some dark streaks
in various places here that correspond
to what I would expect and we will
notice that right here we have a
mirror-image situation happen again so
this is what I was expecting
when I laid the strips out I matched
them this way as well as this way and so
I expected a mirror image line happening
at some point and so when I saw it on
the boat it didn't shock me initially
when I installed these strips it's when
I went and put the next strip on that I
was getting a double mirror image so I
was getting grain running in a zigzag
that I was saying hey that's not how
it's supposed to be I'm supposed to have
one spot where it mirrors and then
narrowing up against the center line
again but I'm not supposed to end up
with zigzag grain what I'm going to end
up doing is installing this strip on
this side and this strip on this side
I'm just double-checking this and I
think we got it figured out here I'm
just gonna start by taking the glue off
this top edge just a little bit of
residue left over from stripping that
strip off of there and so I'm just going
to lightly plane it
and that just removes that layer glue
okay so I'm back to where I was at the
beginning of the day yesterday I've got
these strips glued in place I've put
some hot melt stitches on them because
I'm going to go ahead and add next strip
right on top of it back here behind the
cockpit there's a lot of twist to this
strip and so when I was beveling it it
took a lot of time with the Rolo bevel
to chew away at that upper edge and make
a good tight joint there and now I've
hot melt glue the strips down tight
against the forms there to hold them
there I could have pre twist him with
some heat but it happens over such a
long distance I felt it was easy enough
to just glue them down tight and voila
glue while the hot milk was cooling
because it was under so much stress I
put some bracket clamps on each of the
forms just to hold it while that glue
dries now I should be able to strip all
that stuff off strip off all the tape
and start doubling this strip making it
ready to accept the next
so this afternoon I did all right
I you know I only got three strips on
but I recovered from the mistake on the
stripping pattern and I think it's
nobody will ever know I ever had an
issue you look pretty sharp I think it's
just coming along nice you know all I
have to do for a little while is keep on
adding strips it's not the most exciting
stuff but you know I think the results
will be worthwhile when the pattern all
comes together I think it's gonna look
sharp so it's kind of fun I'm getting to
the easier part of the stripping I there
was a lot of twist back in here and
having to bevel the full length of the
strip took a while but at this point
we're getting up to the part where it's
just sort of so the next episode will be
more of the same I think I'll probably
get up to the point where I'm just
stripping one side and again I'll strip
across the center line and in
preparation for trimming that back and
stripping in from the other side and
back here at the stern I've started to
get past the marks that show where the
feature line defining the back deck
occurs and so I've started shortening
those strips I'll pretty soon get to the
point where I will have stripped up to
the width of the cockpit and at that
point there's no point running the
strip's past the cockpit I'll just be
working on the front half of the boat
and that will go a lot quicker and so
things should accelerate pretty soon so
if you're sitting through all these
videos I think I deserve a thumbs-up
give me a like if you're watching a
bunch of these videos hit subscribe my
supporters on patreon get access to the
videos a couple days early so until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Stripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:30
Stripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:30

So, I found a couple strips out of sequence. I had to strip off the strips.


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So yesterday I flipped the boat over and
started stripping on the deck and today
it's just continuing on with stripping
on the deck my goal is to get as far as
I can the one point of interest today is
I will be crossing the back deck shine
line and as I do that I no longer need
to run the strips full length and so
it's just a matter of running them down
as far as needed to cover that shine
line and then lopping them off short so
that's what we'll be working on
as I was working on getting ready to put
the next strip on top of here I noticed
something that didn't look about right
if you notice right here we've got sort
of a mirror image of the grain looks
cool and I was prepared to have that
happen but when I went to put this strip
on now we've got another mirror image so
it's making a v-shape here and that's
not supposed to happen so I took a
little bit of time I stopped everything
took some time to evaluate what's going
on and I'm not exactly sure I figured it
exactly what happened but seems that
this strip is swapped so it should
probably be on the other side this is
strip 11 and strip 11 on the other side
should be on this side so they it looks
like they're swapped looking up here at
the bow this is cut off from this end of
strip 11
here's two cut off from the other side
and if you notice here I've got my
original Sharpie marks on here as well
as some pencil marks showing that this
was the top here is the cut offs from
strip 10 strip 10 and there and here's
those Sharpie marks again you look here
and I flip this down there's a Sharpie
marks there and I flip this up there's a
Sharpie marks there so these are
supposed to end up like this
so the Sharpie marks be on the same side
so it looks like somehow these strips
strip 11 get flipped over and swapped
side to side somehow as best as I can
tell so what I'm thinking of doing to
maintain the patter and make sure the
pattern doesn't get messed up is peel
this whole strip 11 off of both sides
and it's not the easiest thing to do but
heat gun should get that off of there
should soften up the yellow carpenters
glue they ought to be able to get that
off of there and then I can end up
flipping them over or swapping side to
side we'll see I'll take some time to
examine it at that point and see which
makes more sense
well I was no fun at all shows what you
can do with a little heat the strip came
off it's pretty clean
first first side I had a little bit more
struggle getting it off have to pay
attention to the grain orientation the
putty knife I was using would tend to
ride up into the grain if I wasn't
paying attention
it'll all go together fine in the end
I'm sure but bit of a hassle I think I'm
going to just call this it for right now
sleep on it a little bit aside exactly
how I'm going to approach the fix I
think it's just a matter of taking this
trip putting it over there and that
strip putting it over here basically
flipping it over and I think it'll work
out fine the one issue I have is this
one I had not yet beveled the top edge
but the other one that I just pulled off
I had beveled the top edge therefore
there's material missing from that strip
so the reason I'm thinking about
flipping it to the other side is that
way the bevel that I have will end up
against the bevel that's existing here I
might end up with a little bit of an
open bevel on the interior but that I
can deal with when I come to it on the
inside so tomorrow will be recovery day
from this I will
I'll put these strips back where they're
supposed to be and hopefully keep on
stripping from there so all that support
stuff likes subscriptions patreon all
that stuff go ahead and do that while
you have a chance and we'll talk to you
again tomorrow and so until then thanks
for watching and happy paddling

Applying Carbon Fiber by Hand

Mon, 04/27/2020 - 13:36
Applying Carbon Fiber by Hand nick Mon, 04/27/2020 - 13:36

During this time of COVID-19 I've thought people stuck in their homes may enjoy a little live entertainment. To that end, I have started doing some livestreams on Facebook and Youtube. The project I'm working on in my shop right now is finishing up a microBootlegger that was built in a class. The student who won the raffle after the class wanted my to finish the boat and install seats. At this point he just wants one seat, but one of my nice wood ones. He may get another seat from me later on.

In this video I am working on those seats. I carve the wood itself using my CNC machine, after some sanding I reinforce the wood with fabric and epoxy. In this video I am adding Carbon Fiber to the bottom. I will later sand the other side and fiberglass the top.

I intend to more of these livestreams on various subjects, please check out my Facebook and Youtube channels for more information.

okay so I don't know how this is working
but hopefully it works well um what I'm
going to be doing today is I'm going to
be making seats like this
I've already carved the wood bit and I
I'm going to be putting carbon fiber on
the back here on the bottom side so I
have several of these all carved ready
to go and look these will this one's
something like that um that's gonna be
what the finished product looks like so
at this point I'm putting carbon fiber
on the bottom I will then sand out the
top and fiberglass the top so we get the
black on the bottom and the clear glass
on the top so that's what we're looking
to make so I have the wood bits here
pretty much ready to go
I've sanded this all out a sheet of
carbon fiber here and we are going to
lay that on the seat
all right and I do have I do have my
iPad over here so it's possible I'll be
able to look over every once in a while
and see if there's any questions being
asked feel free to give it a try if I'm
a little slow in answering your
questions I am going to be a little bit
busy over here but feel free and I
appreciate your questions so if we look
at this piece the carbon-fiber ear wraps
all the way around the back comes up the
middle comes up these leg supports and
to the front one thing you may notice in
order to have that happen meeting in the
front these legs and and I want to get
some carbon fiber down on to that
section there so the carbon fiber will
be coming in on either side here I don't
want a blank spot in here so I'm going
to cut some little tab to fit in there
I'm gonna do that by its cut and so
those will fit somewhere in here what
I've done to make this a little bit
easier to work with is I have what I've
done to make this a little bit easier to
work with is I have a couple boxes here
taped to the seat just so I have a
support and it's fairly secure these are
the handles for my Robo metal I've got a
bunch of them in recently so these boxes
are full they're not super heavy but
they've got a little bit of mass to them
so the thing doesn't shift around too
much water all right
no from Dee Dixon so hello thanks for
tuning in so the first thing I'm going
to work on is those little
bits in here so I want to get them
wrapped up around the front end of this
leg and sort of inch or so wide up to
the front of the seat that way when that
layer of carbon fiber wraps around it
will not have a blank spot in there so
we're going to use a piece right out of
this this is the sheet I'm going to cut
the seat out of wrap the seat in and I'm
just going to take some of this and put
a 45 degree angle so the weave of the
cloth is going like this and like this
and so I'm going to cut at a 45 degree
angle and you might I'm not sure how
high-resolution the image is for you but
you might be able to actually see that
where this weave crosses it creates some
diagonal lines so I'm just going to
follow those diagonal lines so I get a
nice 45 with the weed and then I'm going
to cut a piece a couple inches wide so
the reason I cut this at a 45 degree
angle let's quickly show you that so you
see how easily it stretches and distorts
here and it all seems a nice clean edge
there so I can pull on it I can make it
wider you can make it longer so that
that will end up distorting easily
around this complex shape I have to deal
with I'm gonna start cutting off the end
and I think this should be enough for
both legs I'm just gonna cut it in half
so the theory here just show you on a
sample piece the theory is I'm going to
lay it down there and then wrap it all
the way around like that so that way the
front edge of the leg covered in that
strip where the two pieces are going to
meet will also be covered and so I'm
going to get that wet out nicely and
hopefully that will blend in to the
final product so to that end I'm going
to put on some gloves I'm probably gonna
take my gloves off at various times and
if you've ever dealt with these gloves
your hands are all sweaty it can be real
difficult to get the gloves off so to
account for that my plane is to actually
put on several pairs of gloves
so this one they're not another pair in
that way as I get one pair of glove all
sticky I can just peel that off and have
a fresh pair of gloves on underneath I'm
wearing this poopy suit just to keep the
epoxy off my clothes and off my skin I
probably should be wearing my organic
vapor respirator at the same time so I
have a full PPE on everything but if I
try and talk while I'm wearing this I'll
sound like Charlie Brown's teacher so
I'm not gonna have that off so so now
I've got three layers of gloves on maybe
I'll go with one more
these gloves are pretty thin so you
don't lose too much dexterity with
multiple pairs on but it does start to
build up eventually bring this in or I
can work on it now I have got some epoxy
here this happens to be the MAS low
viscosity with the slow I have also
taken this and was sitting next to a
light bulb for the past couple hours so
that liquid is actually somewhat warm
and I've also warmed up the shop here to
about 75 Fahrenheit something like 20
degrees Celsius it's pretty cold out so
that's that's a good temperature in here
sometimes I'll warm it up even more
but for now we'll start with that I've
got a mixing container here this is just
a quart deli container so with the epoxy
you want one pump to one pump so I'm not
sure how much I want in here you know I
don't want to make a huge amount all at
once because I'm gonna it's gonna be a
fairly slow process to get this all wet
out and I don't want this gearing on me
too much so they start with small
batches and so I pump up the resin and
one on the harbor and I always know that
they gonna be starting resin and
finishing on the hardener so instead of
going one two three four five one two
three and then the phone rings I'm just
going to continue to do one pump and one
pump do make sure the pump rise all the
way to the top
these are just ketchup or mustard pumps
they're not like high-tech scientific
instruments these pumps they'd happen to
work quite well but you need to baby
them a little bit run it all the way
down to the bottom each all right that's
probably gonna be enough for now you
know I've got an inch or so on the
bottom now I won't think about a shop
where we build strip build boats we
never lack for stirring sticks so we
want to thoroughly stir this and usually
they say stir for about a minute some
people say two minutes the thing to be
sure you do is make sure it's thoroughly
mixed and so a lot of these plastic cups
have sort of ridges in the bottom that
can be hard to you know sort of
reservoirs of unmixed resin so you want
to make sure you dig down into those
scrape down the sides a lot and keep
stirring vigorously for a fair amount of
time here
right so just getting this well and
thoroughly mixed again scrape down the
side several times as you go and I tend
to like to hold the cup at a bit of an
angle so it's constantly running down
into that bottom corner and that way if
I mix down into that bottom corner
I sort of know that's a place where all
the resins gonna end up there eventually
so I'll hold it a bit of an angle okay I
also like to have a fairly deep
container just you know especially when
I'm working on a boat I'm wandering
around carrying this container of epoxy
and you know if you use a small
container that's almost full any little
angle you tip it you end up drooling the
epoxy all over the floor so a deep one
just controls that urge to drip all over
the place so brush is a simple chip
brush this is an inch and a half thirty
eight millimeter something like that
I like these brushes they're cheap
they're disposable and the bristles are
primarily white width and what that
means and it doesn't matter too much in
this application but if you're doing
fiberglass those white bristles
essentially turn clear in the epoxy so
if you end up losing a bristle in the
epoxy you're probably not going to see
it so chip brushes work well so get the
brush wet out and I'm going to apply
some resin to this area where I'm going
to be putting low pieces of cloth so
sort of pre wet out
so there's something for the fabric to
stick to you saw me blow at this little
these threads of carbon fiber they're
very tenacious they want to stay and
it's not really a big deal to disappear
but just trying to keep it a little bit
me I'm going to take this piece and lay
it up on the foot and out to the end of
the seat there and get it well saturated
so I had written here before I've had a
place to stick and this this carbon fuck
really sucks up a fair amount of resin
if you're used to working with
fiberglass you know four ounce
fiberglass or something
the carbon fiber sucks up a lot more
resin and fiberglass does and it could
be a little hard to deal with sometimes
because you think you should have it all
wet out there should be plenty of resin
in there but it just sucks up so much
too you need to be prepared for that all
likewise on this side
so I have three of these seats to do
so actually two of them going to use
this carbon fiber on the third I have a
heart hybrid carbon Kevlar will
hopefully be getting to three different
seats today all right so now I've got
that little tab located in there now I
want to get some epoxy over the whole
thing because I'm gonna lay glass over
the whole thing or carbon fiber and it
will just help to have a little bit of
something to adhere to as I'm laying
that down I'm not putting it on too
thick but this way I don't need to count
them wedding out the you know saturating
the wood through the cloth I know that
there's at least the starter layer of
resin over the whole
I'm trying to move fairly fast here
because the resin just keeps on getting
thicker and thicker the longer you let
it sit so the quicker I get it out of
the cup on to the piece I'm working on
the better it's going to perform the
easy old beat for saturating the fabric
and saturating the wood all right let's
see what happens here
so I think I'm going to try and pick up
the carbon fiber and again this carbon
fiber wants to stick to everything and
so instead of peeling off the glove just
yet I'm gonna wipe my hands down with
the rag try and get them somewhat clean
and now I have this piece of carbon
fiber lay it down like this
all right so I don't know that it shows
up on the video but there is this
diagonal line running through the due to
the twill weave meeting together and I'm
trying to line that with the center line
and so it's running straight four and a
half Thanh the seat doesn't matter that
much on the seat like this which was
hard to see but so I'm gonna just try
and start to get this to conform to the
shape of the seat and again since I did
this at a diagonal so the weaves going
this way and this way and I have these
linear lines from the feet going this
way that means that the fabric is
running the cross like this and across
like this so it's not hitting that
corner and having to wrap straight up it
can hit that at a diagonal that eases
that corner a little bit makes a little
bit easier for that to make it around
the corner and I've cut that resin on
there to give it a little bit of initial
all right so that's starting to get in
place there now I've got excess here on
those legs I don't need it to run across
the bottom of the legs come straight
down here in the back of the leg and now
wrap that in there like wire inside all
the way to the end of that maybe
slightly beyond all right now let's get
rid of some of the excess around the
edge here
and this here will trim so even with the
front alright that looks like it's
conforming fairly well now we start
wetting that out and I'm gonna start
here the hardest part is this turn from
the bottom up the side of the leg I'm
just gonna ease it down into that corner
likewise on the other side so I'm eating
it down into the corner there
so when I made this see I made sure
there was a pretty good transition
radius between the bottom and the side
of that leg that way make it as easy as
possible for the fabric to make that
transition so now I'm going to just get
a good amount of resin onto that carbon
fiber stuck down brushing it so much I'm
dabbing it down I want the fabric to
conform to the shape and again is that
it that sort of bias diagonal which
makes it easy to distort so if I pull on
this too much it runs the risk of
pulling that we out of place so I'm just
dabbing it down but I'm really using the
ability of this fabric to distort and
wrap around complex shapes and the
carbon fiber is really very good at it
it's amazing the contours with the
carbon fiber will wrap around and if
you're used to working with the glass
the obvious thing you notice here is
with fiberglass starts out white goes
nice and clear the carbon fiber here
stops out black and gets even blacker so
it's hard to know whether it got enough
resin on it I don't know if I can get it
up here so you can see but over on this
side it's got a certain gloss to it and
over on that side you see it's sort of
blacker and you see the dry stuff at the
bottom edge there so you see I don't
have that train I get a little bit wet
out up at the top you really need to pay
attention to how the color of the cloth
changes to see if it's fully wet out
when it's a little bit dry like right at
the butt cheeks there it's a little bit
of a dry spot it's a little
to see and a naturist coming through on
the video just gonna take a little bit
more resin so let's get this use what
I've got here
so one thing about this layup doing a
hand layup like this you know people
think of carbon fibers being lightweight
this is not a particularly lightweight
layout because I'm doing hand layup and
I'm putting on probably more pots either
going to needs I'm really using the
carbon fiber here because it looks cool
I think it's a kind of cool look with
this having the black underside so it
just makes a nice contrast between the
bright wood on the top and the black on
the side so I've pretty much got that
all saturated this is always a tough
place right back here sort of at the
heel of that foot there's a lot going on
right there and you do want to make sure
you're wet all the way up to the top
edge of that foot and a little bit
beyond and at the front edge here I'm
wrapping this layer around the corner a
bit so that first piece I put in is well
covered and I can sand into little into
the second piece a little bit and
feather it in so you don't see that
transition very well I can blend that in
pretty nicely
it is the underside of the seat so if
it's not perfect it's gonna be hard for
anybody to see but you want a nice job
just in case somebody pulls it out so
now I need a squeegee
small squeegee here and a little paper
Dixie cup I'm gonna tape and cut a
little slit at the top of the Dixie cup
just like that I tend to cut it right on
where the paper is doubles doubled up
for the seam on that so it's just a
little bit stronger plastic cups don't
work very well for this they last
longest so I'm going to now just lightly
take the excess off run it through my
slot there
something Rory's asking must be
underneath be done with carbon what a
fiberglass no absolutely the carbon
fiber is just for appearances
fiberglass would work just fine in this
application the carbon fiber just looks
cool so you do not need to use carbon
fiber on your seats unless you want to
and I just think it looks cool
so I'm taking the excess here just
lightly scraping the surface and bong it
through that slot in the cup and that
leaves the squeegee nice and clean and a
little bit of resin gets in the cup
every time
I'm not putting a whole lot of pressure
on this I'm just trying to get the bulk
of the excess off get to the cloth press
down tight against the wood as much as
possible oh if you're using glass you
could you make it a lot more pieces if
this you know I'm trying to do it in
this minimal number of pieces here
because I want the weave of the fabric
to have a nice continuous look to it but
you know if you're using fiberglass
that's clear you know you're not going
to see the weave so you can patch it
together and feather the edges in
together but the the carbon fiber does
look cool
all right so that's one just about ready
over there and I'm just going the back
edge of these again in this area it
really wants to pull off of that so I'm
just going to use my fingers there even
some wood showing up just make sure it's
well pushed down into those Phillips all
the way around I'm just going to take
this one
so I have another one here be much the
same deal this is one that I cut on my
scene see machine actually all of these
I cut it several years ago but this one
is super thin I actually cracked it over
here just trying to trim it off the
other day I don't know that this will
actually survive in the long run but I
figured I'll put some epoxy on it and
carbon fiber and just see what happens
it's some not something I'll give to a
customer but maybe I'll put it in one of
my own boats it'll be super lightweight
because it's so thin it's it's less than
a millimeter thick was cracked right in
here and basically there's it's probably
half a millimeter or less thick so it's
not really strong but we'll see I think
with the carbon fiber glass over the
result will be plenty tough
right now I need another of those little
pieces right there so I'll cut it out of
so again I'm cutting the triangle pieces
off in and then I will just cut that in
half so those are ready to go now this
will mix up a little bit more box
so again I just choose a system for
yourself I want to go with the resin
first in a hardener second just to be
consistent and so I'm putting it in this
presentation so it's a little bit more
lively cold when I go to reach with it
reach it with my hand so that first
batch I made was just about the right
amount to do the whole seat
and again I'm just double-checking that
the pumps risen all the way back to the
top here and finishing on the hardener
so that's about the same amount as they
made last time is about the inch the
quarters of an inch in the bottom of
that so any questions over here lucky
dogs talking about the two by two twill
weave being good at conforming and I
think I think that's true
so this twill weave goes to over to
under to over two hundred and so then
the next year next yarn over does the
same but starts one yarn different so it
ends up with a diagonal line and that
twelve weave makes it does make it
really conform easily but I must say
that even a plain weave over-under
over-under seems to work pretty well
maybe not as well as the twelve but this
will just seems compared to fiberglass
just seems to conform better yeah
asking the weight on this cloth this is
a six ounce cloth and your regular twill
wheat or regular plain weed so this is a
plain weave cloth and this is a twill
weave cloth he's I don't know if that
difference shows up well but you can see
the distinct diagonal lines going
through the twill there is a diagonal
going through the plain weave also but
that over under over that two over two
under seems to make a difference if not
as much holding it down and technically
I believe the twill is a little bit
stronger given the same weight because
there's fewer crimps each time you've
the fabric it weakens the fabric a
little bit and so at will since it's
half as many crimps it's a little bit
stronger but you know as far as weight
goes there are lighter weight fiber
lighter weight carbon fiber fabrics
available but they tend to get really
pricey these nominal six ounce claws are
fairly available they're pricey but not
nearly as pristine as some of the finer
weight cloth in carbon fiber in twill
and plain weave are fairly standard to
find and you're now able to find some
really cool weaves where they're making
really interesting patterns in them and
I should get some of that at some point
because we look cool you know they're
they're designed to be decorative so
again let's stir on that and now I will
once again let out the front edge of
these feet
and get this piece laid in there like so
and again this this shape that you're
able to lay that cloth in if you're
trying to do this not cutting on a bias
there's just no way you'd ever make it
make it wrap around it shaped like that
excusing so again get this little
saturated down there
so now I will pre coat the whole thing
and I'm laying it on pretty heavy here
you hold it they be handed with
because I want to have enough resin on
there to fully saturate the carbon fiber
because it takes take so much to suck up
into the fabric if so you know as far as
to the finished weight of this carbon
fiber versus of fiberglass if I were
using a six ounce 5s cloth versus a six
ounce carbon fiber cloth you know the
cloth is a per square yard weight
measurement and so which is heavier the
carbon fiber the blasts well they're
both exactly the same weight or
nominally the same weight so with the
carbon fiber since it's a less dense
cloth it actually sucks up a lot more
resin per square yard so as a
consequence a square yard of carbon
fiber in a hand layup versus a square
yard of fiberglass in a hand layup the
carbon fiber is going to be heavier it
should be stronger in you know the
carbon fiber strong stuff that's why you
can make lightweight things with it
don't expect to actually be saving
weight doing any kind of hand layup like
this you're really doing it because it
looks cool and I think it does look cool
alright so I'm gonna get this ready for
the layer of fabric just down over the
top of it and again I'm gonna try and
get that diagonal actually diagonal runs
both directions but it's more visible in
one direction than the other direction
so one side again I'm trying to get this
diagonal line lining up with the center
line just for visual appeal
all right so we have it loosely stuck
down here
trimming off the excess does make it
easier to wrap the fabric law around you
have less yarns you know these yarns out
here do affect how easily the fabric
wraps so by trimming them off you no
longer have to worry about how they're
interfering with your layout so again I
get that tucked in either side and then
I'm going to just run down
you're trying to record this on my other
camera because this will hopefully come
out as a standalone video on the process
and this morning I recorded the standing
process and I'll get the glass thing of
the topside eventually and then combine
that all into one longer video alright
so now we're just gonna get this dad
down the way so again you start by
getting it down into that fill up there
both sides
alright question from Monty Edwards
about how long I have with the epoxy I I
warmed this epoxy up before mixing it so
I had a light bulb around the jugs to
make it fairly warm it didn't get super
warm but you know they're warmed up over
the ambient temperature of the room a
bit that lowers the viscosity but also
speeds up the cure time and I warmed up
the shop here so I said earlier on the
shops probably in the I I got it up to
70 to 75 something like that
just to be a little bit warmer and just
before I started on this I turned the
heat off in the shop so from now on it
should be cooling overnight but the warm
shop speeds up the cure and the warm
epoxy speeds up the cure and if I had
this in a big jug with a lot mixed up
here the very fact that I had a lot
mixed up would speed up the cure the
epoxy is a exothermic reaction so as the
chemicals cure they give off some heat
and so the more epoxy you have the
faster it cures but once you get it
spread in film on the surface of your
boat or in this case a seat that slows
right down way down you know it's almost
immediately down to ambient room
temperature here once it's spread out on
but that is I gave it a little bit of a
boost as far as its ability to saturate
the fabric by warming it up so I have
probably 10 20 minutes after mixing this
up in this situation before I really
need to panic on it so I'm not you know
that's giving me plenty of time to get
this process done and I'm just mixing
the next batch in that same pot so even
though there's some you know partially
or partially cured epoxy in there
already basically you add new stuff but
it doesn't cure that much faster just
because you're already got Nick's stuff
in there I'm sure it makes does miss
Nick's faster but not enough to really
worry about so I think I've got this all
wet looking for dry spots all the way to
the edge so get my squeegee again
the cool recommending not to having
carbon fiber on the top side of the seat
so I'd a you don't burn your butt
probably good thought yeah you know I
like the look of the wood and the
finished seat but I also think the wood
actually looks better when is contrasted
with carbon fiber that that contrast
between the two sets the them both off
and a better light so I'm just trying to
get off the bulk of the excess here get
rid of them any major drips this will
all get a fill coat either tonight or
early tomorrow ideally I get this while
I was still tacky with a Philco but
we'll see how ambitious I am tonight my
feet using up all my energy trying to
make this live stream thing work alright
so there was a discussion on the
Facebook kayak building page one of the
kayak building pages in past few days
talking about when to apply fill coats
ideally the best time to apply a fill Co
is while the after the epoxy has cured
up sufficiently that is bonding the
fabric tightly down to the wood but
tacky enough that there's still good
chemical bonds hanging out there waiting
to make a good cure with the next coat
so that's sort of in a sticky state and
when that is really depends on the
temperature top
epoxy you're using etc so it's hard to
say the best way to tell let's just go
out and touch it
feel what it feels like and the
recommended test I heard from the folks
at mas epoxy is to use a cotton ball and
just dab the cotton ball onto the
surface if it's really wet like it is
now the cotton ball will just pull right
off and not pull any hairs off of it
because so wet that it's not really
stinky yet if I let it dry completely
you touch it with a cotton ball cotton
ball won't stick it off because it's
hard you want to find that place where
when you touch the cotton ball or q-tip
to the surface it sticks and pulls hairs
off the ball and that's a sign that you
know it was sticky and it's a good time
to apply a new coat you'll have chemical
bonds sitting out there waiting to do
their thing where if you wait too long
those chemical bonds are sort of used up
not available for new stuff to stick to
so last one here those two were mahogany
this is Western redcedar with a couple
accents of Alaskan yellow sea
and I'm going to be using this
carbon Kevlar hybrid claw actually
because these multiple pairs of gloves I
bought the fresh pair of gloves on
sticking so on the carbon fiber I use my
regular scissors I use four fiberglass
these will cut fiberglass and carbon
fiber no problem but trying to cut the
carbon it doesn't do anything catwalk so
I have this very scissors particularly
for a Kevlar and I'm not exactly sure
how they're sharpened differently they
have a little bit of a texture to it so
it keeps the yarns or fibers from
sliding along it grabs them a little bit
and I think the angles a little bit
different so again I'm gonna cut a
diagonal out of here and you see these
scissors no problem and I'm gonna get it
again the two inch wide piece here
this is one don't cut the other out of
this edge so I will once again mix up a
little bit more epoxy
so this likewise is a six ounce fabric
I'll show you a close-up in a moment but
it's still a twill so it's still two up
two down offsetting by one each time and
in this case it's alternating yarns of
Kevlar and carbon fiber so there's the
warp and weft of the seam or nominally
the same and it makes a nice little
twill pattern there a nice little sort
of houndstooth pattern but I think looks
cool and again you know it's probably
overkill for our purposes to be using
the exotic cloths like this but
basically I will just use a utility
knife you know little box cutter knife
and trim the edge and then I'll sand it
and that will make a nice sharp edge
there well with the Kevlar it can end up
fuzzing up a little bit but I found that
if that fuzz up happens you can just
keep all the finer and finer sand papers
and eventually the fuzz gets sanded down
to nothing so I I'm just letting
everything hang at this point and then
they'll come back and they'll sort of be
a thick layer of epoxy there and ideally
I'll get this
well that epoxy is still green and
and so it'll cut easily with that
utility knife and you know even the
Kevlar what you think is really hard to
cut in the carbon fiber you think oh
that's really strong and leathery epoxy
with the sharp utility knife you cut
through it no problem cuts very easily
alright so we've got this mixed up so
this is what the cloth looks like so you
can see running vertically every other
yarn is yellow and black and running
horizontally every other yarn is yellow
and black so the yellow is the Kevlar
the black is the carbon fiber and it
makes a cool pattern I'd like to look at
it and you see you'll get these lines
where black and yellow line zigzag lines
where the two yarns are the st. kind on
the surface together and so I'm going to
try and line those up so we have my
brush once more we're going to brush
some epoxy onto this
all right so that's a pre saturation I'm
going to try and run these that black
and yellow diagonal straight
this stuff also conforms quite nicely
and we'll get this fully saturated
having the resin below soaked up from
below does help the wet out process on
but you can see so the the contortions
the yarns have to go through they're
coming along diagonally then they wrap
up that curve and wrap around the side
again if we were running the yarn
straight up this way and straight across
that way
it just it would not have a fun time
doing it so once again I will pre
saturate the wood here
so if this the process for these three
is pretty much the same this one's only
different in that I'm using the carbon
Kevlar cloth instead of the pure carbon
the those diagonal lines I've talked
about in the carbon fiber are more
evident in here because of the
alternating carbon and Kevlar yarns
solely a little bit more careful and
getting those lined up nicely alright
here I have a little bit of lot of
carbon fiber to see if the end grain of
this cedar really sucks up the resin so
it doesn't hurt to overfill that a bit
all right once again we will take this
fabric and those diagonal lines are
running vertically so I'm going to try
and get this down so they're running
straight down the center
that's getting it tucked in around of
that leg the camel art is definitely
harder to cut custard a carbon yard
yarns without a second thought
struggle a little bit - those can get
more yarns and I think the fact that
there are diagonal the scissors here is
probably axe making a little bit harder
so I want these my expensive Kevlar
scissors I want to keep them free so I
fixed them do you need alcohol there and
that I should probably always do that to
my scissors if you look at these
scissors you know they're really gummed
up with epoxy I bring these two classes
and students use them and I just let the
epoxy build up but I will use a paint
scraper to get the built up epoxy that's
why I get stuff off there but a little
denatured alcohol water it is still wet
so now we will once again get this
completely wetted out this is a little
bit easier than the carbon fiber to see
that a saturated color change and the
Kevlar is a little bit more pronounced
it goes from a sort of bright yellow to
a greenish so that does make it a little
bit easier to see
I'm finding I have a little space here
where the in front edge of the seat is
not completely covered with fabric so
I'm going to just see if I can pull the
fabric down a length a little bit and
get it so stretches
here's the black yarn we don't want that
in the surface it'll be more visible
than on the carbon on carbon
yeah Thomas Cooper talking about the how
you doing tom
like the woods showing through the the
carbon fiber yeah it can you know I I
tend to not worry about it too much
the more you distort the cloth here the
more likely it is that those weaves just
open up in such a way that you can see
the wood showing through one way to deal
with that so the best way is just paint
the wood black or tint the wood black
before applying the carbon fiber that
way you may be seeing the wood but you
won't know it because it'll be black so
we're just getting this nicely out there
nice happy carbon fiber
happy Kevlar
and there's a little bit distortion
that's visible here and the weave around
this back foot I can sort of pull on it
a little bit to support even that out
and distribute the distortion a little
bit more evenly throughout the wrap make
sure you get up the sides of the legs
it's easy to miss that
okay Rory
I've had problems keeping the carbon
fiber down and the angles it seems to
straighten out and lift away from the
wood yeah again try and make it so the
bias lays into those corners so instead
of having the yarns come straight up
this way and run straight parallel to
that corner I've set up the yarns in the
bias so it's easing that corner and
making it a less drastic corner and that
definitely helps I have found you know
people often talk about working in
falling temperatures while doing
fiberglass work on stripper poles I
found that it's even more critical when
using these fabrics the fabrics are not
good at letting the air escape out
through fabric and so you can end up in
a situation where you can't see the
bubble because it's under the cloth but
there's a bubble there and it can't get
out through the fabric in the same way
it might in fiberglass so if you have
outgassing from the wood due to the wood
getting warm and warm or throughout your
process you'll end up with really bad
bubbles and it's really hard to see them
until it's kind of too late I have found
however and this is from experience that
even when the epoxy is hard as long as
it's only recently hard you can take a
heat gun and soften the epoxy up and
press out a bubble you know it's not
recommended that you allow it to happen
but it you know comes to shove and he
end up in the situation where you've got
some major bubbles try and inspect with
your work fairly early on in the cure
process you know babysit it and if you
see bubbles rising up a start to make
sure your temperatures drop and to just
make those bubbles shrink and be you can
come and heat them up with the heat gun
and press them back down if you get to
them early enough
so this is just about ready
and I feel this grunge cup starting to
warm up at the bottom of the earliest
grunge is starting to kick off again
it's um a fairly thick blob here and
this will make a nice muffin probably is
that epoxy kicks off the air trapped in
the epoxy from all the scraping I've
done will start to expand and don't end
up looking like a souffle here I call
that bacon muffins all right so
I also find with the epoxy cup typically
if you just leave the epoxy brush over
the top let it keep or you can probably
pop the old epoxy out of there or just
use it as is with the layer of cured
epoxy in the bottom it doesn't matter
but if you leave the cup down there's a
brush down in the cup then it's harder
to just straight away use it and it's I
find it harder to get the brush the
whole bit of epoxy out of there with the
brush stuck into it it seems to be
easier if there's nothing in there and
then I just squeeze the cup and crack it
out of there and generally have good
results with that all right so just
double-checking around these feet making
sure it's living in there wrapping
nicely edge looks pretty good
so let's see if there's you have
questions here
how long do you have to great
explanation hand lay-up
somebody's wondering where the Russian
subtitles are sorry about that next time
anything else okay I think that's what
it shows you the process I'm gonna let
these cure up and probably get a fill
code on it again either tonight or
tomorrow morning and see how it all
comes out so feel free after I'm done
here to keep on asking questions on in
the comments and we can try to get to
them and you know I'll answer them the
old-fashioned way all right Kevin
deboning I'll be putting carbon fiber on
small wooden pieces vacuum bagging a
good idea vacuum bagging is going to
provide a stronger light lighter layup
with carbon fiber but it's it's a bit of
a hassle the alternatives so the cheap
man's vacuum bagging is to use a peel
ply so a peel ply is a nylon fabric
sometimes treated with something so it
the epoxy does not bond to it but the
epoxy doesn't bind to nylon very well
anyways so if you're dealing with flat
surfaces you lay that excuse me you lay
the fabric down so your carbon fiber wet
it out completely and then over saturate
it a little bit and then you lay down
your peel ply and squeegee it down tight
and you'll get a resin soaking up
through the peel ply and you can even
squeegee off the excess and when when
it's cured you go ahead and you peel
that peel ply right off and it leaves a
nice surface that's basically glue up
ready sanding ready you don't need a
fill coat
and it's a really inexpensive easy way
to get some of the properties of a good
vacuum bag the reason I am not doing it
on these seats is it does not do well in
complicated shapes so the peel ply
doesn't conform the same way that I
would last or carbon fiber conforms to
these complicated shapes so I couldn't
lay it down and have it do all these
curves it just doesn't like to do curves
the peel ply does flat surface really so
actually this this is my backrest I
don't know if you can see but that's
carbon fiber and this I laid a peel ply
on essentially it's it's not a compound
curve the peel ply lay down on it very
easily and end up with a nice surface
and just a light sanding on that and I
can glue it directly to it it's a nice
it's a really nice thing I wish that we
were easier to use on the layout of the
layout of a full boat if you could light
peel ply down on it and have good
results you'd save weight because you
essentially don't need a Philco and
you're compressing the fabric and
squeezing the excess resin out and it's
a nice thing but the complex shapes will
be even in fairly simple canoe I think
there's things you could do you could
cut strips and lay it down and you know
so each strip doesn't have to conform to
quite as complicated
but each time you have an overlap of the
strip you'll end up with the rich name
that would you would have to sand down
so I think that it would just not be
worthwhile but it's something I keep
thinking about and you know if anybody
wants to do the science on that report
back I'd like to hear how it goes all
right I think I'm going to call that the
day here again if you have any questions
feel free to post them in the comments
and I'll try to get back onto those
shortly let's see how do we stop this
thing there we go there's an X stop yes

Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21

Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06
Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21 nick Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06

Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.


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Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license ( Artist:

good morning welcome back to the shop
I'm Nick Schade and I'm building the micro
bootlegger sports strip built kayak so
far I've got the hull all stripped up
and what's gonna happen today is I'm
gonna flip the forms over and start
working on the deck the first step of
that is obviously just flipping it over
and then I want to break the strip's
free of the forms right now they're hot
melt glue to the forms to avoid staples
in order to make it easier to get the
haul off later I want to break that glue
joint and make it so the hollows free of
the forms so we'll flip the boat over
break it free and then start stripping
up the deck so the hulls potentially
gonna receive a little bit of rough
handling while I try and flip it over so
just is a little bit of reinforcement
I'm gonna run some filament tape which
is a fiberglass reinforced packing tape
just across the strips just isn't sort
of reinforcement I'll do it wherever
there's a form over here I set up some V
blocks on my saw horses this is a
place to accept the boat as I flip it
over I'll end up putting it back on my
external strong back system here before
I'm done but just for now but I can lift
it up put it someplace I have these B
I have here some inverse forms or
cradles to correspond to a couple of the
forms on the strong back so this is
would be form 28 or 28 inches from the
finished bow so we've got form 98 and
form 158 and so I'm just going to end up
screwing these down to the strong back
in their respective locations so I have
cradles to hold the boat securely to the
my working surface here couple cleats to
just a little bit of weather stripping
here which I'm going to use to cushion
top edge of these forms
it looks like it'll do just fine so now
I want to break the strips off the forms
I don't want to mess up the forms
particularly but I just want to make
sure that the glue holding the strip's
to these forms is broken so when it
comes time to get the deck off I only
need to worry about breaking the deck
free I will already have the hull free
so the first thing I want to do is just
make it to the forms of freedom moves so
the wedges are out the forms are free to
move now and then I'll just take lightly
tap the forms break them free
when I tap here I'm tapping towards the
wider bit so I'm not trying to force the
forms into a smaller part of the strips
which could split the tips apart once
the forms are broken free I can return
them to their original position by
inserting the wedges back in
I'm also going to cut the inner stem
here so I don't end up attaching the
Deccan Hall together of this piece
with the stems cut I can just double
check make sure the forms are indeed
free this end double check the other end
since the stern recurves forward this
part of the form is trapped in there in
order to get it out it needs to slide
forward and so I can't just lift up here
to break it free I need to lift up at
the other end
now after popping all that glue off I'm
gonna put a little bit of glue back in
but this time I'm just gonna be gluing
the top edge just to make sure these
strips tape stay tight up against the
forms these will be easy enough to break
out when it comes time so the forms all
flipped over and ready to accept strips
from the deck those strips were all
bundled up and prepared before we even
started on the haul and so now it's just
a matter of unbundling those and taking
one strip off of stack at a time and
adding it onto the forms see how far we
get here we have the material we set
aside for the deck got it marked
starboard port this is the part line
nine and nine with a circle on it and so
we just need to undo this wrapping so we
can get access to the strips
bringing this for a strip over here will
do the sanity check all right
part line part line starboard starboard
six seven eight nine so it looks like
everything's in the sequence it's
supposed to be and grain looks like it's
right orientation everything looks good
so quick dry fit here shows I need to do
a little bit of Robo bevel on here to
square up that top edge of the existing
so I'm ready to put this first strip on
the deck the only thing that's different
here is I won't actually glue the bottom
edge of this strip to the top edge of
this strip that way when it comes time
to take the deck off it's not glued
together I will glue this strip to the
forms and some of these strips popped
off on the hull i'll riku them back on
and I will put a little spot of yellow
glue between the strip and the inner
stem so this does get clued to the inner
stem but it does not get glued to the
strip below it and again I'm lining up
my marks here to keep the grain all
aligned and we'll just continue with
that all the way up to the centerline
like a lot of kayak designs micro
bootlegger sport doesn't have a defined
shear line I've created a part line
which is right here between these two
strips so I haven't glued between these
two strips and in the middle of the boat
that's the widest part of the forms it
doesn't really have anything going on
there it's just a smooth continuous
curve past that area I'd like to make it
so essentially that part line disappears
so in the finished boat you just don't
see where the hull finishes off and the
deck starts you know I've got a water
line here and I want to point that out
but I don't really need to point out
where the shear line is on the
traditional kayak the shear line is a
fairly distinct angle between the deck
and the hall and there's an obvious
transition from the deck to the hall
with this it's not so obvious and I want
to hide it so as part of that I
continued these strips rate paths
they're the same color strips starting
at the water water line moving up but
the other thing is since there is not
that to find angle there it's not very
rigid so it's it's pretty easy for these
strips to move one against the other and
so one is high then the other is high
and if I'm sanding making this a smooth
transition between this strip and this
strip can be a little tricky because
there's not much supporting it here at
the forum there's something supporting
it here at the other form of something
supporting it but here the this strips
can flex quite a bit so what I'd like to
do is put a little bit of a backer
behind that to help keep those strips
aligned and what it's going to be is
basically a couple little tabs of wood
one glued to the top overhanging into
the bottom another on the bottom
overhanging onto the top I'm going to
on the inside so when you push on it
there's something bridging those two
pieces but I don't want to have the two
pieces bonded together that's why we'll
glue one to one side and the other to
the other side but by having those two
teeth hooked together it'll just give a
little bit of support so just get this
little short piece of strip here and the
part line is the third between the third
and fourth strip down one two three four
so right there and I'm going to end up
gluing this across like that and then
another piece right next to it so one
will be glued to the strip above the
part line yeah they will be glued to the
strip below the part line
and it'll go along the whole scene
between every form doing just that
so that'll just give it a little bit of
support when it comes time to sand the
outside along the part line
I'm gonna call that it for today I got
three strips up the side I get the
little teeth in there to hold this that
seam in alignment I flipped this morning
I flipped it over and got the forms
knocked free and so made good progress
today I think it's it's looking sharp
that dark wood that I've that I've used
for the side is the pattern starting to
come together I'm starting to see the
next mirror here and I think it's really
gonna look cool tomorrow will be just
more stripping watching a man stripped
and we'll see how far we get with that
the goal will be to get up to the center
line start stripping past the center
line on one side and then eventually
we'll end up marking that center line
trimming to the center line filling in
from the other side and we will also
mark this back deck shine feature line
and put a accent strip along there we'll
also put an accent strip on the center
line and we'll fill in this back deck
with that other wood I got which I think
will look really sharp so coming along
if you have any questions please post
them in the comments you know if you
watched all the way through this give me
a like if you're watching all these
episodes hit subscribe I've got a couple
books out about strip building boats and
despite the amount of information I'm
trying to put into this video I think
having a reference from those books to
see what steps and what a little bit
more why I'm doing things might come in
handy for some of you if you're
interested in the book there should be a
link down in the description until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8

Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49
Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8 nick Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49

Final sanding of the strips and applying a stain to the wood prior to fiberglassing.

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

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so I built the boat in this series in the
winter of 2019 as I record this intro
right now it is the middle of March of
2020 and we're in the midst of the
corona virus
my wife just put her hand on my forehead
to see if I had a fever I hope
everybody's safe in good health washing
their hands maybe doing a little social
distancing hanging out in their shop and
boatbuilding I thought you guys might
appreciate a break from all the bad news
on the television in the newspaper and
watch a little bit about building for
now and so in this episode I'm going to
be working on finishing up the sanding
and getting some stain on the boat so
we'll be doing a little bit of masking
to have different colored stains and to
keep the accents showing up nice and
bright and I'll start off with filling
some of the gaps that inevitably show up
in any bill they do so let's get right
to it
I have a few small cracks where I didn't
have good tight joints between the
strips so I'm going to fill some of
those up with a little bit of sawdust
mixture so I've got my cyclone here
which collects the dust as I sand and I
dumped it out before I got started it's
some clean stuff so that cedar sawdust I
found that even though this is the wood
that came off the boat it ends up being
darker when you mix it up like this just
because of the fine powder just absorbs
material resin and so forth more so I'm
going to add a little bit of cab Asil
I'm gonna add some water to it
glue to ask act as a size and sort of
fine binds it all together there I have
a putty which I can spread into the
cracks seal them up
part of what sealing up the cracks does
isn't just visual it's to keep the epoxy
from just running straight through
leaving sort of a bubble there so this
will help fill those up so here I have a
little crack I'd like to fill up it's
pretty thin I could just epoxy right
over this and you know frankly you've
probably never even noticed it but here
I might as well see if I can fill that
up a little bit I'm going to take and
put masking tape on either side of it
that way I don't end up getting a halo
of glue sealing up the grain in the wood
around the issue
and I'm just putting the material right
where I need it and take the putty knife
take some of the putty off let it dry
I'll be coming back and sanding this and
it'll knock the top off of that
I'll give the whole boat of the final
overall sanding with 120 on the
longboard it gets rid of scratches from
the last 120 sanding deals with some of
these places where I put a little putty
in the cracks and also last thing I did
before that was when everything down
raised the grain so this will flatten
that raised
so I've done the major overall sanding
now I want to hit some details always
difficult get the very edge here at the
shear line stand it all the way out
because it's flexible there so you push
on it it just flexes away and tends to
get shortchanged in the amount of
sanding it gets so I'm going to sit down
and there's a small city block and take
care of that some places on the deck
where around the recess it needs a
little bit of detail and I'm just gonna
affect it as I go see if I see anything
and I can deal with it as I go
so now I've got the Deccan Hall all
sanded out ready for the next step which
in this case is going to be staining I
could go directly to fiberglassing now
if I weren't gonna stain
so each pass I did took like half an
hour to do the whole boat so the first
60 grit over the whole thing about half
an hour then I did sixty grit on the
longboard another half hour and then 80
grit with the random orbital and then 80
grit with the longboard and then 120
grit with the random orbital and 120 was
the longboard then a little bit of
detail sanding so there were three hours
of sanding to get it to this point which
is quite a bit of time spent sanding but
it goes pretty quickly the thing to
remember to make sanding as easy as
possible is be intentional in what
you're doing so know what you're
intending to do so the first pass is to
level things out and fair it out so we
want that to go as quickly as possible
it's about removing material so we want
to move material as quickly as possible
so for that purpose we go with really
coarse grit and a really powerful sander
and so we're just removing material
we're trying to make it level so we're
not trying to erase mistakes we're
trying to lower high spots so you don't
go around say oh there's a spot that
looks like it needs work and try and dig
into that spot that's going to make a
low spot if you see a place where there
seems to be an issue where it's uneven
feel for the high spots and knock down
the high spots again we're being
intentional in what we're doing also to
save time be systematic in what you're
doing so don't just sort of pop here and
there oh I see something over there you
see something over here work from one
end of the boat to the other then back
up the other way work on it
systematically so you're not
going over the same spot lots of times
this was pretty easy to fare out the
strips were laying down fair they were
fitting tight they were even the Cova
bead helped make the strips nice and
even I save time my sanding by making
sure I had the strip's fair and smooth I
put them in place every step of the way
we're trying to make things fair and
smooth and that way when it comes time
to do a real hard work of tearing it out
you don't need to do a lot of work so
once we get it all fair and smooth and
leveled we are done trying to get rid of
problems we there might be a few here
and there that we missed but if you feel
when you get to the next grit that oh
here's an issue I've got to work on this
you were better off doing that with the
coarse grain and when it goes faster
trying to fix problems with the finer
grain just as slow we want to use the
most aggressive fastest tool we can to
get the job done and so it's done
quickly I know people are scared to use
coarse grain sandpaper but it takes a
lot of work to sand all the way through
the boat and you're most likely to do
that if you're trying to spot fix things
the whole intention of the 80 grit
sandpaper is only to get rid of the
scratches from the 60 grit sandpaper and
then once we're done with the AIDA we go
to 120 and the reason for using 120 is
to get rid of the scratches from the 80
grit sandpaper if you're finding swirls
leftover from the 60 grit you probably
didn't do enough with the 80 grit so as
you go with the 80 grit inspect the
surface look for scratches in it that
are the swirls from the 60 grit you'll
be able to tell the difference sand them
away so do your process systematically
as you go trying to get rid of the
scratches the whole way it doesn't take
a lot you just need to be intentional in
what you're doing knowing what you're
trying to accomplish and concentrating
on a comp
sing that task and then move on to the
next task so there is a lot of sanding
strip build boats it's a given and the
goal is to make the sanding is easy and
quick as possible and when you're doing
it right it's a really satisfying
project you're seeing changes you see
how you're improving the boat with every
step of the process if you're not seeing
it make any difference think about what
you're doing are you doing something
that's worthwhile if it doesn't look
like it's making a difference do
something else if you see something that
needs to be fixed and what you're doing
isn't fixing it think about what you
need to do to fix it so be intentional
in everything you do and it'll go
quickly and it'll be fun and you'll have
a beautiful boat I put some accent
strips some contrasting Alaskan yellow
cedar in lung feature line if I have
this trying basically accent strip I
like to put in highlight hide that
accent strip I want to do that put a lot
of effort into putting that strip in
what I've often done is just going to
hit gone ahead and stained everything
then come back it ends up popping again
so you can see the nice accent what I
did today this time we want to go ahead
and get stained today if we put epoxy on
here I need to wait 12 hours for that to
dry have that accent showing pretty
crisply so I'm gonna put masking tape on
either side of the accent blue tape here
instead of the green tape I often use
because the blue tape does not stick as
well I want it to stick but I don't want
it to like peel grain I don't want to
create a rough spot by putting a really
aggressive sticking tape on here and
peeling up grain as I peel it off and
then having a place where the stain
reacts differently due to the texture of
the wood science experiment then I'm
going to try and put a bead of CA glue
right down on top of that looks like it
may worked alright
I got a chance to set up take a look at
it the few places where strings of glue
pulled off as I peel the tape I might be
able to sand those out that looks like
there's a nice bead right on top of that
accent there's a little bit of bleed off
into the cedar but there's going to be
good contrast there anyways I think
that'll work out fine
I have an accent strip on the hall also
again this accent highlights repeat the
line drying back here and I had the same
problem we're gonna be staining on both
sides and so I don't want stain on the
accent stripe but I have a slightly
different solution for this one my
intention is to have a two-tone here so
the bottom of the boat will be stained
as well the side of the boat but I'm
going to use a lighter stain on the
bottom than I am gonna do on the side so
to accomplish that I'm going to mask off
with masking tape at the accent stripe I
know if I'm sort of a messy workers so
I'm gonna take some of this masking film
and put that along and I'll put that
below the accent stripe and I'll use
regular masking tape to get just above
the accent stripe the the goal is to
have the masking tape and the edge of
the masking tape above the line wrapping
down below so it's covering the line I'm
gonna leave a little bit of the natural
wood showing above the accent stripe and
the accent stripes going to have a
little bit of act of natural wood color
on either side just a skosh I
specifically chose a high contrast wood
on either side of the accent stripe here
so if I don't get color all the way to
the accent strike it'll still look right
because there'll be a nice sharp
contrast there again the goal is to come
by with the masking film so I don't
spill any stain down the side of the
boat and I'm going to do the bottom
first which is the lighter colors so if
I do end up getting stained on the side
of the boat it'll be a lighter color and
any in the darker stain should hide it
but again I'm going to try and mask it
off and protect it with this masking
I'm gonna use this light red mahogany
stain on the bottom and I'll use a
darker blood-red on the sides on the top
we've got a clean rag I'm gonna put the
stain on the rag fairly heavy and wet
wipe down the whole boat and then come
back with denatured alcohol and wipe
down the boat again this is an
alcohol-based stain so it dries really
quickly as such a tends to blotch so by
coming back with a wet alcohol rag I can
even out the color
I'll let that dry and then to the side
now with the bottom stain dry I'll mask
off the accent strip on the other side
and then to the side of the boat
I'm using a blood red for the side and
the deck so it should be some contrast
between the side and the bottom but you
know still reddish
well it's good I will let that dry and
we'll get some fiberglass on the boat so
you may know that I make my living
primarily through the sale of plans to
build your own small boats such as this
kayak and other boats I have so if your
boss told you to stay home and do some
social distancing and quarantine in
place and you've been looking to build a
now maybe is your chance unfortunately
it looks like we may have a lot of time
when we've got to stay away from people
and maybe it's a good time to just be in
your shop and hang out and work on an
interesting project so if that projects
building boat I have plans available
come by my website check it out see what
I've what I've got otherwise whatever
you have just a nice time to be in the
shop and keep away from people but
seriously and more importantly it's the
time to stay safe and keep your same
family safe and do what you need to do
wash your hands buy more toilet paper or
whatever you need to do so until the
next episode stay safe thanks for
watching and happy paddling

Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7

Sun, 03/29/2020 - 12:15
Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7 nick Sun, 03/29/2020 - 12:15

Installing the cockpit recess and getting going on sanding and fairing.

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at:


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hey welcome to heal my kayaks workshop
I'm Nick Schade and we were working on
the petrel sea kayak and last episode we
finished up the stripping and in this
episode we will install the cockpit
recess and start sanding before I get
into that like to talk a little bit
about the Cove and bead strips as you
remember I'm using 3/16 thick strips and
I'm using the three sixteenths diameter
covin bead bit
the typical cove and bead width 3/16 strips
is still using the quarter inch that
you'd use a quarter inch thick strips
but I found a set of router bits that
will make 3/16 Cove and bead and I
decided to experiment with that and see
how it worked worked well they'll work
better than the quarter-inch cove and bead
set I got good tight joints things
seemed to nestle in there they seemed to
stay in place quite well I would say
however I can get better tighter joint
still by hand beveling for example using
my Robo-bevel on square edged strips I
think I can still get tighter joints by
hand beveling so with that said let's
get straight to this episode with the
spacers out these forms are free to move
so I can push them out of the way as I
need to so at this point I'm going to
drop the recess back in place and I've
made some marks where the centre line is
on each end here I'm going to line that
up with the centre line on the boat
now I'm gonna trace this on to the deck
the pattern I used to cut out this hole
just as a rough size it ends up cutting
a little bit small
which is ideal be bad if it was oversize
it's hard to add wood back on but here
we can get it fitted in closer to where
it needs to be gives you a good idea
where it needs to be and then now we can
make a new mark here
they use a saber saw again to get in
closer to that line I use a bunch of
little planes to clean up the edge these
need to get fared out and beveled so
they fit up against the the recess piece
so we'll just take and playing this down
just look for the high spots and knock
them down
I have a little gap here between where
strip coming in from the stern and strip
coming in to the bow didn't quite meet
and ended up being a little bit on the
deck I think by the time I get this all
playing down all that's going to remain
of this little gap filler is slightest a
little bit so that's going to be
invisible but I just want to have
something in there for now while I'm
filling that in getting it plain smooth
up at the front end of this reef set
piece this piece is a little bit wider
than the feature line here so I'm gonna
eventually want to trim this down blend
that in but for now I'm just gonna work
and hitting these fits tighter but
you'll see me shave that back a little
bit so this point ends up great even
with that your feature line so again
this is going to have to be trimmed off
on both sides make it symmetrical
the cockpit recess all installed I'm
ready to pull the staples and start
sanding I might do a little scraping
we'll see what needs to be done I'll
just get to it I'm using staples people
often think it's going to take a real
long time to remove them all you know
this year I started about ten of two and
I finished up but about two o'clock
so I've done one quick pass over the
whole deck with 60 grid in the random
orbital sander I haven't tried to fix
anything I've just tried to go over the
whole thing start to level it out and
it's a fairly consistent manner so I'm
trying to just hit everything about the
same amount at this point there's some
places that the Sanders missed for
various reasons usually there's some
little low strips if i zoom in here you
see some shiny spots around up in here
down here some in here
those are spots where you're seeing the
surface of the strip that's been cut
with a saw and there's sort of dull
sections are all where it's been hit
with the sander so I'd like to get rid
of all those shiny spots and the trick
there isn't to just go and hit those
shiny spots with the sander it's the
level the areas around it down to the
level of that low spot so there's a
couple ways you can do it you can do it
with the sander some of them up in here
I've got these are where the really
sharp points the strips come in between
two other strips and those ten does not
want to bend up as the stern sweeps up
here but I think I'm gonna do there is
just hit those areas with a spokeshave
and essentially I'm lowering the wood
around those low spots
and I'll hit it with a sander again see
if it looks any better
obviously I've made some new shiny spots
trying saying those level see how it was
a bunch of shiny spots in here - between
strips looks like I just didn't hit that
quite as much with the sander
there's a little bit of shine up in here
left but otherwise that's looking pretty
so that's sixty grit on the deck now
I'll flip the boat over and start
working on the bottom right now the only
thing holding the deck onto this strong
back is a little bit of residual glue
you're just going to tape it down just
so as I manhandling I'm just gonna flip
it over onto these cradles on the
sawhorse doesn't work on it there so it
took about ten minutes remove the
staples from the deck and then here's
another 15 minutes
so it took twenty five minutes
I'll ask the first pass with the 60 grit
so I could cut down pretty well as a
couple shiny spots deal with this
looking good I'm going to take the hull
off the forms and then the deck off the
forms and create two sets of forms one
for the deck one for the hole just to
make it easier to work on so I can work
on the deck and work on the hull kind of
at the same time without having to flip
back and forth between them obviously
you could do what I did before or just
as I finished one part flip it over do
the other part but it is a little heavy
with all the forms in there and the
strong back and so forth so I'm just
going to take it all apart and what I'm
going to do is I don't have two full
sets of forms so I'm going to just take
every other form and put every other
form on the other strong back and that
way I have two sets of forms with
instead of a ten inch spacing like I
have on these forms I'll have a twenty
inch space at this point it's all
stripped up it's not a big deal so
that's the plan
I've got these little half-inch spaces I
can put in in lieu of the form and so
the spacing stones
I'm gonna make this strong back to the
deck and I'm going to keep the bow forms
on the deck because the deck is just
I'm just gonna put a little dab of our
hot melt glue on the forms just near the
shear line to just help secure the
Deccan Hall to those forms so they don't
shift around as I'm sanding
I'm now going to send everything 60 grid
on a longboard this is to fare out the
surface the first pass with the random
orbital 60 grit was to level things out
get rid of the glue start to get rid of
the facets between the strips this will
tend to make sure that there's no divots
left by that sanding and to help just
get a smooth surface
so now the boats fair I've leveled out
all the inconsistencies between the
strips I've gotten rid of any
inconsistencies in the link with the
longboard now really all I need to do is
get rid of the scratches from the 60
grit so first step I'm going to step up
to 80 grit and now I'm going to put a
contour pad on this will make the sander
conform more to the surface of the boat
and be a little bit less aggressive when
I first ran it with this rotecks
I was using the aggressive mode I'm
going to turn it down to the less
aggressive mode a little finer sanding
again we're trying to get rid of the
sanding scratches now and from here I
will do some more hand sanding and then
go to 120 and work my way up to 120 and
finish with hand sanding 120 and that
should be plenty to get rid of the
scratches and have a good base for stain
and epoxy fiberglass up in the ends
where this sander may be a little bit
big I might avoid using this sander on
some of the smaller places we'll see how
I feel
most of the scratches from the 60 grit I
like to go over it again with hand
sanding to get those scratches the
scratches from the 80 grit down so
they're just going parallel instead of
being the swirls from the random random
Oracle plus I want to try out my new
flexible sanding pad this is the work of
pad with dust collection looks pretty
I'm going to switch over to my Finnish
sander this finer orbit this is a three
millimeter orbit on here we're going to
continue to use my contour pad that's
all sanded out to 120 I'll do one more
sanding hand sanding with 120 but before
I do that and want to swell out the
grain a little bit just raise the grain
so I have a squirt bottle with water in
it so I'm just going to spritz the whole
thing down make the whole thing wet let
that dry overnight and I'll sand a
handstand with 120 in the morning
so I'm almost done with sanding now I
just showed you wetting out the wood
which will expand any compression areas
from sanding or pulling staples or
whatever may have happened but I'm
letting that dry and in the next episode
we'll finish up the sanding stain the
boat but leave the bottom unstained and
then I think in the next episode we
should also be able to get right into
fiberglassing we'll see how long it
takes and how long the episode is trying
to keep it reasonable so if you're
interested in seeing that hit subscribe
turn on notifications hit like hit
follow whatever you like to do all those
good things it really helps me and I
really appreciate it if you'd like to
directly support the making of these
videos I've got a patreon site for a
buck or two a month you can subscribe
and help me produce these videos and
keep them coming on a timely manner the
best thing to do to support these is to
head over to my website Gilliam at
kayaks calm you'll find plans for this
boat and a lot of others you'll find
instruction books on strip building I've
got two books a strip bill sea kayak
which outlines the process for building
a strip built sea kayak and building
strip plank boats with goes into the
details of strip building from building
any small boat so if you're interested
in any of that head over there see if
there's anything you'd like so until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Performance Graphs Are Back

Thu, 03/26/2020 - 13:00
Performance Graphs Are Back nick Thu, 03/26/2020 - 13:00

My old website had them and some people have asked about them and now they are back. I have stability and drag (how much force is needed to go a given speed) data for most of my designs.


These graphs show how much torque it takes to hold the kayak at a given angle of lean. On the left (0°) is upright and on the left is completely upside down (180°).

The stability is modeled with several different paddler weights and several different weights for gear. The paddler (or rower) is assumed to be seated in the kayak with their center of gravity 10-inches above the seat, directly with the boat center of buoyancy and the gear is centered in the volume of the boat. The weight of the boat is also factored into the calculation. The paddler is assumed to be sitting bolt upright in the seat and does not do anything to correct for the boat leaning.

What is being graphed is actually the side-to-side horizontal distance between the center of gravity of the paddler/gear/boat system and the center of buoyancy at various angles between 0° and 180°. This sometimes called GZ. What this tells us is how long the lever arm is that is forcing the boat to tip. When the numbers are positive, that means the boat wants to turn back upright, i.e. it is "stable". The moment trying to force the boat back upright is the combined weight of the boat and everything in it times the distance GZ giving you foot-pounds of torque. When the number goes negative, that means the weight of the paddler/gear/boat system is out beyond the center of buoyancy and the torque is actually trying to dump you in the water.

I generally have modeled the stability with two different weight paddlers and each with or without gear in the boat. Heavier paddlers tend to make the boat less stable because their weight raises the center of gravity. Heavier gear tends to make the boat more stable as the weight lowers the center of gravity.

Initial Stability

Kind of like it says, "Initial" stability is how stable the boat feels when it is floating upright normally. Some boats will feel very solid when you sit in them, other will be a bit twitchy - feeling like they don't want to settle down. To get an idea about initial stability, look at the first part of the graph all the way over on the left. Look at how quickly the lines rise up from the zero point (zero degrees is floating upright with no lean). Those boats where the curve rises quickly will feel more stable. Boats where the curve is almost flat and rises very little or slightly will tend to feel unstable. 

Secondary Stability

There are some boats that feel really unstably at first, but if are hard to capsize. If you lean hard out to one side, they find a spot where it is hard to tip them over more. This is secondary stability. Secondary stability is often characterized by how high the top of the stability curve gets. This is the maximum torque you can put on the boat without it capsizing. As you lean farther at requires less and less effort to make the boat tip farther and farther.

Ultimate Stability

It may seem like this is the most important but really it is initial and secondary stability that most effect how comfortable we are in a boat. Ultimate stability is how much work it takes to finally get the boat to the point of no-return. When the curve crosses the zero line and becomes negative, the boat would now rather go completely upside down than return to upright. Technically, this is the area under the curve for the positive parts of the stability curve. Look for boats with a high maximum GZ combined with zero-crossing as far to the right as possible. Boats with higher curves will be harder to tip, and boats with longer positive stability can be tipped at a more severe angle and still return upright.


The drag graphs are based on the modeling system created by John Winters for the old Sea Kayaker Magazine for their kayak evaluations and reviews. As of this writing you could still find the Excel modeling spread sheet on the Mariner Kayaks website. These models are based on some testing Sea Kayaker had done on sea kayaks and then refined by John. I am using a version of the Excel spread sheet.

In this case "drag" is the predicted force that is required to make the boat move a certain speed through the water. Boats with lower drag at a certain speed are easier to move at that speed, and conversely if you are able to make your paddle or oars produce a certain amount of force, the boat with lower drag will go faster when you are paddling that hard.

Drag is a function of primary sources. Friction from water sliding along the underwater surface of the boat is the primary source of drag at low speeds. As speed increases, the wake created by the boat pushing water out of the way becomes more important. Moving that water out and back around the shape/form of the boat requires energy, and the faster it moves the more energy required. At the top end speed, the form drag dominates over the frictional drag.

Generally, boats with lower wetted surface areas will have less frictional drag, and longer boats will have less form drag. As a result short boats are often easier to paddle (faster) at low speeds, and long boats are faster at high speeds.

Like the stability curves, I have generally modeled the drag with a couple scenarios: with the boat carrying just the paddler/rower and with the paddler plus some gear. Typically, more total weight will require more power to move around, so the drag will be higher.

Reading the Graphs

At the time I am writing this blog post, I am still trying to improve the display of the data. The legends are hard to read, but if you over your mouse over the dots on the curves, you will see more information about each curve.

It is my goal to have these graphs plotted on the comparison page as well, but that part of the project is not yet completed.


Stabilité du Kayak

Fri, 02/28/2020 - 10:15
Stabilité du Kayak nick Fri, 02/28/2020 - 09:15

Quoi de plus facile que de choisir un bateau stable  ? Il suffit de prendre le bateau le plus large et il sera stable … ok ? 

Pourtant, il existe des kayaks à partir de 50cm à 80cm de large, que les fabricants disent  stables…

Faut il être né dans un kayak pour arriver a le garder à l’endroit ? 

Qu’est ce que la  «stabilité secondaire" ?

De toute façon, Je sais par expérience personnelle que cette question peut  provoquer un débat qui peut durer des jours. 

La stabilité est presque toujours la première préoccupation du  débutant kayakiste. La stabilité est la première chose qu’un pagayeur expérimenté analysera  sur un kayak, et une mauvaise courbe de   stabilité fera immédiatement disqualifier le bateau . 

Tout les gens veulent savoir si un kayak est dans leur courbe de stabilité acceptable ;un magazine américain ,Sea Kayaker Magazine , publie  les courbes de stabilité des  kayak testés avec les commentaires depuis un certain temps.

Les novices regardent  ces courbes et sont déconcertés, la courbe doit permettre d’informer si le bateau est destiné a un débutant ou a un expert  .. pour cela il faut comprendre :

qu’est ce que  la stabilité 

La définition de la stabilité semble assez claire à la plupart des gens. Un bateau qui les tient hors de l’eau est stable, tandis que celui qui se retourne ne l’est pas !

 Pourtant et bien que cela semble assez clair, deux personnes qui essaient le même bateau auront souvent  des opinions différentes sur sa stabilité. 

( voir l’animation sur le site cité en référence )

Il est utile de commencer par s’entendre sur ce que signifie être «stable». La bonne définition du dictionnaire, qui s’applique aux bateaux est probablement: "conçus de manière à ce que les forces en présence restaurent une position initiale des lors qu’elle est perturbée dans des proportions a définir” , cela  à partir d’un état d’équilibre initial  Dans un kayak, nous voulons revenir à la verticale après avoir incliné légerement le bateau . ( voir cette animation sur le lien … )


Ainsi, un bateau "stable" développe des forces qui permettent de  rétablir la position à la verticale après l’avoir incliné. 


Quelles forces sont en cause 

Il ya deux grandes forces à l’œuvre sur un kayak au repos dans l’eau. Le poids du pagayeur, de son équipement et du bateau cumulés  . Cette force s’applique vers le bas . 

Ce poids est supporté par une force égale et opposée ( poussée d’archimede) vers le haut . C’est l’interaction de ces deux forces qui est impliquée dans la stabilité.

La distribution des forces permet de déterminer si un kayak est stable ou non. 

La force de flottabilité de l’eau ( poussée) est distribuée sur  toute la partie immergée du bateau. La pression de l’eau poussant sur la surface extérieure du bateau est opposée à l’appui de tous les poids dans le kayak. Au lieu de d’essayer de garder la trace d’un groupe de forces distribuées , les ingénieurs localisent le centre de forces  .Si vous ajoutez toutes les forces distribuées et appliquez le résultat à travers un “centre de force”, une force appliquée a ce point   provoquera la même réaction que toute les forces décomposées  agissant simultannément.

Cette technique permet à un “kayak designer”  de définir l’ensemble de ces forces en un "centre de gravité (CG) ou de" centre de masse "(CM) et toutes les forces de flottabilité dans un "centre de flottabilité" (CB). Étant donné que la force de flottabilité est égale et opposée à la force de gravité, le concepteur n’a même pas besoin de  beaucoup d’attention à  la valeur réelle de la force elle même .

Au lieu de cela, ils peut simplement se rappeler que sur le plat la force de gravité est orientée vers le bas et la  force de flottabilité est orientée vers le haut , et regardez la marge relative horizontale endroits de la CG et CB. 

Avec un bateau en équilibre, les centres de  force seront  alignés l’un directement au-dessus de l’autre. Dans un kayak le centre de flottabilité sera directement au-dessous du centre de gravité. De cette manière, les forces sont équilibrées. 

Si une nouvelle condition vient à perturber le l’équilibre, comme le vent, une vague ou le pagayeur qui s’incline ,les centres se décaleront comme sur le shéma en mouvement.

 Comme vous le voyez, votre CG se déplace vers le coté et tend à vous renverser. Sauf si la CB se déplace en réponse, d’une même valeur ,votre poids sera appliqué au-delà du centre de  flottabilité  et vous chavirerez.

 Dans un kayak stable par conception, l’action de basculement du bateau réorganise les les forces de flottabilité pour déplacer la CB dans le sens de l’ inclinaison au-delà de la CG, ce qui redresse  le kayak . Dans un bateau stable, le centre de flottabilité se déplace d’un côté à l’autre “plus rapidement” que le centre de gravité.

Pour qu’un kayak soit  stable, il doit : soit appliquer une force à même de faire revenir l’ensemble à la verticale , ou au minimum trouver un nouvel état d’équilibre incliné . 

 Le kayak designer peut intervenir sur la forme des couples du bateau ( coupe transversale ) sur la position du Cg sur le plan longitudinal ( en avançant ou reculant la position du kayakiste) , et sur la hauteur du siege (qui abaisse ou réhausse le Cg du kayakiste)

Le meilleur équilibre consisterait à positionner le CG AU DESSOUS du CB , mais à moins d’un systeme de respiration ce choix n’est pas possible !… ( cela s’appelle une stabilité pendulaire ) 

 Lorsque vous déplacez votre corps d’un côté, le CG va se déplacer latéralement , et sortir de l’axe du CB .

 le CB a maintenant besoin de se déplacer sous le CG pour retrouver la stabilité pendant que la coque s’incline ,l’action d’immerger une partie de la coque sur le coté fait se déplacer le CB  vers l’extérieur 

Si le bateau est conçu  pour être stable, la CB se déplace de  côté plus vite que le CG.


sur cet exemple , a gauche  ,  compte tenu de sa forme, le point d’appui (S) se déplacent au-delà des centre de masse (W). Cela l’ amène à revenir vers une position verticale. c’est un profil stable

À l’inverse, sur l’exemple de droite , la position est très instable et amplifie le mouvement de bascule a partir du moment ou le CG se d éplace plus vite que le CB .


Comment les centres de  flottabilité se déplacent ils ?  . Dans la photo ci-dessus, la ligne bleue est la ligne de  flottaison originelle. Lorsque l’on incline l’ensemble , le quartier vert est une déportance (b) , car il sort de l’eau , et le quartier violet (c) une sur-portance dont l’origine est l’enfoncement du coté appuyé de la coque .

 Le premier centre de flottabilité (Ba + b) est déplacé vers le point (Ba) par la soustraction de volume (b), auquel s’ajoute  le volume (c). C’est ce déplacement du volume de flottabilité   qui crée la stabilité. 

Notez que le changement se produit essentiellement en raison de la présence des   volumes, proches de la ligne de flottaison. C’est pourquoi la stabilité initiale dépend de la forme de la ligne de flottaison et la largeur et non sur la forme au-dessous de la flottaison. 

Ce n’est que le plan  proche  de la ligne de flottaison qui est d’abord affecté par l’inclinaison  .  La forme du bordé proche de la ligne de flottaison aura une grande importance dans les effets de stabilité initiaux .

Immaginez maintenant  la vue en coupe de la ligne d e flottaison sur la longueur totale du bateau .La partie supérieure du volume "mouillé". nous appellerons cela un "plan d’eau".

Lorsque l’on incline le kayak ,  un côté est poussé vers le bas et s’immerge quand l’autre coté se souleve et sort de l’eau .  C’est ce déplacement de la flottabilité qui déplace la CB. Cela se passe tout au long du “plan d’eau”. Le passage de la flottabilité de la gauche soulevée vers la droite enfoncée dans l’eau représente l’effort qui va s’opposer à ce mouvement de CB, et c’est cette tendance du kayak qui est ressentie comme la stabilité initiale du bateau. Le plan d’eau se déplace latéralement vers le coté ou vous penchez .. 

La stabilité initiale est la tendance du bateau à résister à un peu de déport de la verticale. Un plus grand “plan d’eau” augmente le volume de déplacement immergé sur le coté  augmentant ainsi la stabilité initiale. Donner au plan d’eau une plus grande largeur moyenne aura le même effet.

Notez que le plan d’eau détermine la forme et le volume immergés et  la façon dont la CB se déplace. Pour les petits angles de basculement, la coupe, la forme du bateau immédiatement au-dessus ou au-dessous du plan d’eau ( sous la ligne de flottaison ) n’ont pas beaucoup d’effet. 

Cela signifie que la coupe, la forme du bateau n’a pas d’effet sur la stabilité initiale. Deux kayaks avec différentes formes de section , mais même plan d’eau auront  des stabilité initiales comparables. 

Cela est souvent  contraire à ce que vous avez entendu dire, mais la forme  avec un   fond arrondi, en "V" ou en forme , n’auront pas ou peu d’effet sur  la stabilité initiale

La forme du kayak a pour seul effet sur la stabilité  qu’ elle entre ou sort de l’eau. Les faibles différences dans la forme de coupe de la coque ne modifient que peu le plan d’eau  et n’affectent pas la stabilité initiale .

résumé : pour un Plan D’eau identique la stabilité initiale n’est pas modifiée par la forme de la coque sous la ligne de flottaison .

 Si vous essayez de deux bateaux avec des plan d’eau identiques en  formes en  largeurs et que vous  détectez une différence significative dans la stabilité initiale, elle est  probablement dûe à des différences de hauteur du siège ou de tout autre facteur qui modifie la hauteur du  CG. L’effet des variations de  hauteur du CG sera discuté plus tard.

C’est seulement lorsque l’angle de basculement commence à augmenter que la forme de la coupe ( transversale) commence à entrer en jeu. Plus l’angle augmente, et plus la forme des parties du kayak, initialement hors de l’eau ,et progressivement immergées vont  influencer la stabilité .

Le centre de flottabilité est déplacé par l’ajout de volume sur un côté (parties s’immergeant) et en soustrayant le volume de l’autre côté (parties emmergeantes). La CB va se déplacer  rapidement ainqi que le plan d’eau a partir duquel  est calculé ce centre . 

 L’effet de volume est un "moment" de la force . qui est égal à : taille du volume V que multiplie la distance depuis l’axe  . Pour lever un poids important il suffit de prendre un levier …. et un point d’appui: ici l’eau . 

Si, sur un bateau  court il faudra un  petit volume X grand bras d e levier  , sur un bateau long on obtiendra le même effet avec un volume supérieur et une largeur moindre car le volume sera réparti sur une plus grande longueur ( grand volume X petit bras de levier ).  

 Cette force de redressement ou  moment de redressement est reportée sur une courbe de stabilité.

Comparativement à d’autres critères de performance, les caractéristiques de stabilité d’un bateau  sont assez faciles à quantifier. Le plus souvent, la représentation de la stabilité est la «courbe de stabilité". 

Ce graphique représente une ligne proportionnelle à la distance horizontale entre le centre de gravité et le centre de flottabilité pour différents angles d’inclinaison .

Cette courbe décrit le «moment de redressement", ou encore le couple du kayak  présent  pour forcer le bateau à revenir en position verticale.

 Il peut également être considéré comme un «moment d’inclinaison" ou combien de force est-il  nécessaire pour amener  un bateau à un angle d’inclinaison donné. Ces graphiques supposent que le pagayeur reste immobile à travers l’ensemble de la gamme d’angles , et qu’il est d’un poids constant . 

Qui fixe le lieu du CG par rapport au bateau? Le designer  est capable de  calculer l’emplacement de la CB. Cela exige une intégration des calculs assez complexes pour déterminer le centre de flottabilité d’une série de sections de l’embarcation et l’intégration de ces calculs pour déterminer la CB pour l’ensemble du bateau. Tout cela est difficile à faire manuellement, les ordinateurs sont très sollicités pour ces calculs. 

La position du pagayeur immobile peut sembler  absurde à bord d’un bateau comme un kayak, qui dépend des mouvement du pagayeur pour perdre  une grande partie de sa stabilité, mais  il ya de bonnes raisons pour cette hypothèse. Elle élimine les écarts dus à la compétence du pagayeur qui influencerait  la courbe de stabilité. 

Lecture de la courbe de stabilité 

Il ya plusieurs aspects de la courbe de stabilité qui mériteraient d’être étudiées: la hauteur à un angle de gîte, la pente de la courbe à chaque angle et l’aire sous la courbe de zéro degrés à un angle donné. La hauteur de la courbe indique combien de force le bateau est en train de créer pour revenir en position verticale. La pente de la courbe indique la résistance à l’inclinaison. L’aire sous la courbe correspond à la quantité d’énergie qui est absorbée par le bateau quand il est basculé

La courbe de stabilité (en rouge) peut être répartie en plusieurs points identifiables. Évidemment, le premier point important  est la hauteur de la courbe. Compte tenu d’une inclinaison avec le même angle, celui qui aura le point le plus élevé à l’angle de la courbe , sera plus stable. La prochaine chose à regarder sera la pente de la courbe à 0 degrés. La courbe qui monte plus vite aura une plus grande stabilité initiale . Le pic de la courbe où la stabilité commence à diminuer est également important. Celui dont  ce point sera plus élevée ou à un plus grand angle d’inclinaison  aura  plus de stabilité secondaire. En regardant l’aire sous la courbe  le pic de la courbe (la zone bleu foncé), vous pouvez obtenir une valeur pour la stabilité secondaire . Les zones bleues combinées  sont  une indication de la quantité d’énergie que le bateau peut absorber avant de chavirer . Le point final de la stabilité là où la ligne traverse le zéro est l’angle au-delà duquel il  chavire .

La hauteur de la courbe est probablement le plus facile à comprendre et  ce que la plupart des gens regardent  en premier. Une courbe plus élevée signifie que le moment de redressement est plus grand. Cela signifie qu’il sera plus difficile de faire pencher le bateau avec la valeur la plus élevée à un angle donné et, si les deux bateaux sont inclinés au  même angle, celui avec la valeur la plus élevée sur la courbe de stabilité à ce moment-là va revenir venir plus rapidement en position verticale . 

Tant que la la valeur de stabilité est supérieure à zéro, le bateau aura tendance à revenir en position verticale, sauf si  d’autres forces sont appliquées. Ainsi, les bateaux ayant les  plus grande courbes stabilité se sentent généralement plus stable. Et les bateaux avec des moments de stabilité supérieur à angles d’inclinaison supérieur offrent  au pagayeur un peu plus de marge de manœuvre avant de se  renverser. C’est facile à comprendre, mais, malheureusement,ce  n’est pas la fin de l’histoire. 

Regardez à l’arrière de la courbe de stabilité et réfléchissons à ce que cela signifie. Si   une vague arrive sur le coté et vous frappe avec un peu plus de force, vous allez  être poussé à un endroit de la courbe ou l’effort supportable est faible , entrainant le retournement . Vous avez besoin de plus de force d’appui, et au lieu de cela vous en obtenez moins.  Parce que la courbe est en pente vers le bas toute augmentation de basculement recevra un moment de redressement de plus en plus faible . Bien que le bateau possède  toujours une force de redressement, au-delà du haut de la courbe de stabilité, cette force est de moins en moins présente . 

 ci-dessus sont représentés des bateaux avec leurs courbes de stabilité. Bien que les bateaux aient  des largeurs différentes, la largeur de la ligne de flottaison et de la forme du plan d’eau  est la même dans tous les bateaux. Remarquez comment la pente de la courbe, près de zéro est pratiquement identique quel que soit les différentes formes ci-dessus et en dessous de la ligne d’eau. La raison en est que la stabilité initiale n’est pas dépendante de la forme générale du bateau, mais de  la largeur de la ligne de flottaison et de la forme du plan d’eau . 

Même si vous vous attendiez a ce que le bateau a forme ronde  (rouge) soit le moins stable, on observe qu’ il a le plus de stabilité de l’ensemble car il possède beaucoup de réserve de volume  au-dessus de la flottaison. Et même si la coque a bouchain (en bleu) a une  largeur similaire, le volume de distribution de la forme arrondie lui donne plus de stabilité. Toute forme qui s’élargit au-dessus de l’eau aura tendance à avoir plus de stabilité secondaire. 

Ci-dessous, la largeur totale a été augmenté suffisamment pour donner à tous les bateaux quelques stabilité. Le déplacement est toujours le même tout ce qui a changé, c’est la largeur. Remarquez que  l’emplacement de chaque courbe ne  change pas . Le moins stable est encore le moins stable et , le plus stable le demeure ….( visible a droite de la courbe ) la hiérarchie ne change pas . 


Utilisant la même forme de coque de base ci-dessous sont les courbes de l’ensemble lorsque les largeurs sont les mêmes. Maintenant, le fond rond est beaucoup moins stable, car la largeur de la ligne de flottaison est beaucoup moins grande . Cela explique pourquoi la connaissance de la largeur hors tout d’un kayak n’est pas informative. Vous en apprendrez plus en demandant à connaître la largeur moyenne de  l’ensemble  et la largeur moyenne à la flottaison.




La pente ascendante de la courbe de stabilité augmente la  sécurité parce que toute augmentation de la force de basculement se traduira par une augmentation de la force de rappel . Si vous voulez vous penchez   vous pouvez être sûr que le bateau va vous soutenir. Un petit manque d’attention ne va  généralement pas provoquer un bain. 

Une ascension rapide de la pente crée un sentiment de raideur, parce qu’il faut plus de force pour effectuer une petite modification. C’est comme monter une montagne ou la pente est forte, et  la distance à parcourir est faible mais l’effort important . 

 L’importance de la pente de la courbe est évident dès le début. La pente de la courbe à petits angles de gîte correspond à la stabilité initiale. 

Tel que discuté précédemment, la stabilité initiale est la résistance du bateau à giter un peu. La pente de la ligne au début de la courbe de stabilité indique cette résistance. En fait, la pente de la droite en tout point le long de la courbe de stabilité indique combien de force supplémentaire sera nécessaire pour incliner  encore le  kayak.

Une subtile différence dans l’impression peut être observée en examinant la façon dont  la ligne de pente  évolue. Si la pente augmente de plus en plus , cela signifie que le bateau a besoin d’une plus grande force pour obtenir une même augmentation de l’angle de basculement. Sur ce bateau vous sentirez comme il résiste  lorsque  vous essayez de vous pencher plus. À l’inverse si la courbe a une pente progressivement décroissante, pour un effort d’inclinaison moindre il s’inclinera fortement … ( et n,’oublions pas que la simulation est faite kayakiste stable dans le bateau )  .Il faudra diminuer progressivement  la force pour obtenir la même modification de l’angle d’inclinaison . Cela donnera  la sensation que le bateau est  moins résistant a l’inclinaison . Tous les bateaux auront une partie de la courbe de stabilité, au dela du point haut de la courbe dans qui ressemble à ceci. Le point de résistance maxi  ( point haut de la courbe) , pourra être une quasi droite plus ou moins longue sur laquelle la sensation d’un point dur avant le retournement du bateau  sera très marqué mais cela n’est présent que sur peu de modeles . 

La stabilité secondaire est généralement liée à la hauteur maximale de la courbe de stabilité. De toute évidence, un moment de redressement maximum plus élevé rendra le bateau plus stable , et  vous aurez besoin d’appliquer plus de force pour atteindre cet angle. Mais l’angle formé par  la courbe au point ou elle atteint  le maximum est également important parce que cela indique dans quelle mesure vous pouvez faire gîter le bateau avant de commencer à perdre de la stabilité. pour les bateaux tres directeurs , c’est cette faculté qui autorise une maniabilité satisfaisante . Une façon de combiner la hauteur et l’angle de la durée maximale de moment de redressement est de regarder la taille de la zone située entre la courbe et la ligne horizontale zéro. Ceci indique que le travail ou l’énergie nécessaire au basculement du bateau à ce point. Une plus grande aire sous la courbe indique qu’il faudra plus d’efforts pour incliner le bateau. 

La plupart des gens ne se sentent pas en sécurité lorsqu’ils sont a une inclinaison  proche de  l’angle où la courbe atteint un maximum. 

La pente de la courbe aura toujours un niveau avant de descendre la pente et une ligne horizontale sur la courbe signifie que la faible augmentation de la force de basculement permet de créer un grand changement dans la façon dont le bateau donne des informations . Et si vous êtes plus proches de l’endroit où la courbe commence a s’incliner vers le bas, vous êtes proches de provoquer un chavirement. 

Chaque personne a une perception différente de la stabilité secondaire d’un kayak? cette perception du moment ou la courbe vient  à plat sera conditionnée   par son aisance , ou au contraire son appréhension 

Une forte stabilité secondaire doublée d’un point "dur " apportera  beaucoup plus de confort pour le pagayeur . 

Le chavirage n’est pas inévitable, après le point extrême sur la courbe de stabilité. Le kayak peut être incliné jusqu’au point  où la ligne traverse zéro sans que  le kayak contribue activement au chavirement. C’est le point où le moment de redressement devient négatif et c’est là que le bateau n’est plus en mesure de fournir aucune force pour vous pousser vers une position verticale. Une valeur négative signifie que le moment de redressement et de la flottabilité des bateaux s’ajoutent a   votre poids pour retourner l’ensemble.

Là encore, il est utile de regarder l’aire sous la courbe. La mesure de la zone en dessous de la courbe de stabilité de la verticale décrit la stabilité globale du kayak restante.  La surface  représente  la mesure de  d’énergie que le kayak peut absorber sans chavirement, une vague qui gifles sur le côté du bateau, un poisson qui tire sur une canne à pêche. 

La plupart des pagayeurs ne fera probablement pas l’expérience de la stabilité générale dans l’utilisation régulière. Habituellement, au moment où le bateau est poussé sur le sommet de la courbe de stabilité, le pagayeur est fortement impressionné ,  prend une grande respiration.

affirmer que l’on peut se baser sur  la courbe de stabilité n’est pas à dire à un pagayeur débutant pour choisir un bateau . 

Il faudra  d’abord comprendre comment la courbe se rapporte à votre style de pagayage et a vos  compétences. 

Il n’existe pas deux personnes de même  forme et de poids. La courbe de stabilité fixe suppose un centre de gravité théorique du pagayeur. Par exemple, les commentaires de Sea Kayaker affirment que  le CG est de 10 pouces( 24,5cm) au-dessus de la partie inférieure du siège. De toute évidence, beaucoup de gens ne vont pas correspondre à cette hypothèse. Un  homme large d’épaules aura un  CG tout autre qu’une  petite femme. Leur poids sera différent ainsi que leur hauteur relative . 

Toutefois, cela ne signifie pas que la courbe de stabilité est sans pertinence. Changer le poids et la hauteur de la CG aura des effets prévisibles sur la stabilité. Un autre poids du pagayeur va changer profondément la façon dont le bateau se trouve immergé. Ceci va changer la largeur de la ligne de flottaison, la forme de la section immergée et  la forme du plan d’eau . Toutefois, cela ne va  pas vraiment de changer la forme du bateau et la forme de la courbe restera proche  quel que soit son poids. Les gens légers vont probablement trouver tous les bateaux un peu plus stable que les autres.  la ligne d’eau sera plus basse , et plus étroite , mais ils pèsent moins et le moment de redressement ne changera pas autant qu’il le devrait. En conséquence, les stabilité initiale et secondaire restent souvent étonnamment similaires, indépendamment du poids. Pour les personnes plus lourdes ( grandes ) une fois qu’ils obtiennent le plus haut point de la courbe de stabilité,  leur poids commence à tirer vers le bas plus rapidement.

Élever ou abaisser le CG a ,un effet prévisible sur  la stabilité. La variation de la stabilité peut être calculée en fonction de la modification du CG , mais le changement de la stabilité dépendra plutot  de l’attitude du kayakiste que de la conception , les calculs trouvent ici leurs limites . Un pagayeur Lourd et grand , (CG haut)  va toujours trouver les bateaux plus instables que ses amis  pagayeurs légers ( CG bas )     


Ces courbes montrent les effets des changements radicaux dans la hauteur du centre de gravité. Si la ligne médiane (100%) met le centre de gravité de 10 pouces (25,4cm) au-dessus de la ligne de flottaison, chaque ligne représente une élévation ou un abaissement du CG un pouce. 70% serait de 7 pouces (17,8cm)et 120% serait de 12 pouces(30,48) . A 1 / 2 pouce( 1,27cm) , sera très notable pour la plupart des gens.( s’asseoir sur un coussin par exemple )

Les autres éléments qui joueront sur VOTRE Stabilité résident dans la façon dont vous serez calés dans votre bateau pour faire corps avec lui , votre capacité a laisser le bateau vivre au niveau de votre bassin en conservant le buste vertical dans les mouvements de roulis du bateau ( on appelle cela débloquer le bassin ).


La stabilité est une chose subjective, même si l’on peut maintenant parler de stabilité primaire et secondaire en se comprenant .  Le même bateau qui sera  un piège pour un novice pourra être jugé  lourd et ennuyeux pour un pagayeur expert  extrême. Linverse est vrai aussi !

 Un vendeur désireux de vous vendre un bateau aura tendance à souligner les caractéristiques qu’il juge le plus aptes à vous convaincre ….

 La courbe de stabilité élimine cette subjectivité. Il s’agit de la réaction non filtrée du bateau lui-même, faisant abstraction de vos mouvements et attitudes . 

Si vous êtes prêt à prendre un peu de temps pour apprendre à l’interpréter, la courbe de stabilité peut être un bon outil d’évaluation. Mais rien ne peut remplacer, en dernière analyse, pour passer un excellent moment dans un kayak, un essai du bateau ,  en évaluant ses stabilités et sensations en inclinant le bateau progressivement , sans, puis avec appuis des pagaies pour connaitre vos limites avec ce bateau . Bien sur les angles d’inclinaisons avec un appui pagaie sont illimités , il est possible d’eskimauter non !

Completing The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6

Thu, 02/27/2020 - 16:39
Completing The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6 nick Thu, 02/27/2020 - 15:39

Here I trim off the strips at the feature line, add an accent strip along the trimmed edges and then complete the stripping of the rest of the deck

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at:


Hey welcome to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade I design and
build small boats primarily kayaks but
also canoes row boats anything that you
can put on top of a car I've been
designing boats since the 1980s of and
Gilmar kayaks was have been around since
1993 I've written a couple books about
building boats primarily with the strip
building method and I've written
articles for wooden boat magazines sea
kayak or Backlund and existed and with
my company Gill my kayaks I sell plans
and instructions for people to build
their own boats and all my designs are
offered as kits to Chesapeake like craft
in this episode I'll finish up stripping
up the deck and get to the point where
I'm about ready to put in the cockpit
recess I'll start off with putting in an
accent along the feature lines on the
deck and then I'll fill in the remaining
strips so without further ado let's get
right to it
I didn't make this strip long enough so
I've got a little gap right here I'm
just gonna glue another piece in there
fill that in and it's such a small piece
if I don't have a perfect fit nobody
will notice so most of it will get
trimmed off
I didn't here's where I put that little
extra bit in this is a glue the super
glue right there so it's like a 32nd or
64th wide at that point goes out to
about there
really all that did was fill a cove in
on this strip so when I glued this down
there wasn't a gap there
so I cut these calming recess pieces on
my CNC machine it's just a quick way to
do it but I didn't get it on video so
what I'm just gonna do is pre assemble
this recess just to bend these around
here like that put a little tape on it
then super glue it together and then
work on installing it on the deck of the
I cut this recess sill piece with the
grain going across like this that
happened to be the way it fit in my
plywood the best structurally when it's
all done it's going to be fine but right
now it's a little delicate because this
short grain right across here so I'm
just taking a little bit of a masking
tape and sticking it down on this is a
whole thing to bind the that grain
together a little bit more give it a
little bit of reinforcement you know
I'll be delicate with it but just added
I remembered as I was gluing this up and
I'm gonna stain everything and it might
be a problem later because this will act
as resist in here this super glue but I
have some solutions I think we'll see
how it works out right now before I
install this bit I want to work on
beveling this edge right now that edge
is angled out through the square edge of
the cut and want to bevel it down and a
little bit inward so when I go to press
it into the deck it has a squeezing
tight fit there so I want to go all the
way around
this edge here blend this in a little
bit here and there and get this a little
bit more vertical for the installed unit
this recess is going to drop in here
something like so but in order to make
that fit I first got a couple an
approximation of the hole that's going
to drop into so I have a paper pattern
here which will lay up something like
and that'll guide me on where to make
the cut
so I'll tape this in place but I want to
get the staples out of the way first so
they're not interfering with the fare so
I'm just going to remove the staples
from this area this heavy-duty Bostitch
a staple remover is pretty nice it's a
model g27 w staple remover from stanley
Bostitch one thing about it basically
you have this flat surface to press
against the wood so it doesn't dimple
the wood and you just stick the little
tooth there under it push down on the
lever and it lifts that staple right out
of there
this little tooth here you see is on a
screw it can come out and you can
sharpen this little tooth to make it
easier to get under some of the staples
I have not yet done that with this so I
think I'm going to do that make it a
little bit easier to get into the some
of the staples that were a little too
close to the wood
I didn't make a knife sharp but just
tried to make it a little bit easier to
slide under the staple so it still has a
bit of a square edge there but it's down
a little bit lower good way to start so
just get the tooth under the scape a
little bit start wiggling it up take it
out off the staple avoid trying to dig
in like this that'll leave a divot in
the wood little horseshoe shape that'll
leave a mark that will be hard to sand
out just try and slide it horizontally
in and once you get it hooked in a
little bit a little wiggle pull it out
so be a little careful that you don't
end up with a staple hanging off the
bottom here like this sometimes when you
go to dump it out it stays on there and
you end up pressing that staple down
into the wood as you go to pull the next
staple out so your little careful with
seems to be in the ballpark I'm going to
cut it out with a saber saw with the
really fine tooth blade in there I don't
want to cut through the form so I'll
just go in between the forms and use a
to get at the forms and again I don't
want to cut too strong back so I'll come
up to here and stop going to here and
stop this is gonna sit in there about
like this you'll see it's starting to
hit this spacer in the strong back and
when it's all the way in it's going to
hit that it will not hit the strong back
itself though it's just the spacer so
I'd like to remove the spacer and in
order to do that I need to move this
form and in order to do that and go into
some of the other forms I'll move the
staples from these three forms that way
so that's about enough for this episode
in the next episode we'll put in the
cockpit recess and see how far we get
with that if you're interested in
building your own boat like this head
over to my website Gilliam at kayaks
calm I've got plans and instructions
there for this design and a bunch of
other designs and there's probably a
boat there suitable for your needs if
you'd like to provide some direct
support for these videos I've got a
patreon site you can chip in a buck or
two a month just to help the production
of these videos if you don't want to do
any of that but you like these videos
and you want to see more of them hit
subscribe like my facebook page share
with your friends turn on notifications
all that good stuff so until the next
episode thanks for watching and happy

Building the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kits

Wed, 02/26/2020 - 20:24
Building the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kits nick Wed, 02/26/2020 - 19:24

Chesapeake Light Craft captured this time lapse video of building the Petrel SG and Petrel Play SG back in a class I taught down at their Annapolis shop. We started out with a bare kit which is just a pile of CNC cut pieces of plywood and after the end of five and half days the students walk out with a fully assembled kayak ready for finish work.

Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20

Wed, 02/26/2020 - 14:06
Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20 nick Wed, 02/26/2020 - 13:06

Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

Music: Casey Don’t You Fret - Dan Lebowitz

welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks shop I'm
Nick Schade today I'm going to close off
the bottom of the boat people
traditionally call a last strip on the
haul whiskey strip this is because you
can celebrate when the last strip is
done I'm not a drinker so I won't
partake and it's not really the last
strip on the boat anyways they've got
the whole top side left to go and for
those out there watching who want to
celebrate go for it I've got about one
and a half strips to go that little half
strip is so small it's hard to work with
so what I do is I end up gluing two
strips together and fitting them both at
once and so that's what I'll be working
on today
here I've got the next-to-last strip and
the last strip and so I'm going to glue
these two strips together and install
them as a unit and so the first thing
I'm gonna do one together so that's
accomplished with I tape them together
here and I'm gonna use superglue to do
this going together I could use regular
you know carpenters glue like you do
everywhere else but I'm impatient so I'm
just gonna go the quick way some CA glue
say no acrylate glue like super glue
lines up
the accelerant so here we have the
center line and the strips I'm building
in from this side over and so this strip
here is curved and this edge here is
straight and this is these strips are
going to go in parallel to this curved
strip so I'm going to end up bending
this whole thing in place you know it
looks kind of tricky now to make that
Bend but it actually works out now what
I want to do is mark that curve so the
way I'm going to accomplish that it's a
little bit confusing I'm going to take
this strip flip it over get it all lined
up here and then I'm going to mark it
from the other side so this edge here is
going to end up being curved and when I
go to mark this I'm going to be marking
what's essentially going to end up being
this straight edge but I'm going to be
marking it along this seam here this
edge right there so this is confusing so
I'm gonna reach it under here just face
him under there in between each form I'm
also gonna mark the end the tip of each
point here so now I have the curve
marked here this is all going to bend so
that this curved line is now parallel to
this straight line and this straight
edge here is going to be parallel to
this curved edge that's confusing but I
haven't found a better way to mark this
accurately and again I could have
installed this long strip like yesterday
and then had my whiskey' strip be this
narrow one right here
but it gets hard to handle such a small
piece of wood when it's that narrow and
work on it accurately having a little
bit bigger piece of woods easier to work
with and I still need to figure out
those tapers and the width here is the
width it needs to be I know the strip
can bend I have bent all the other ones
this is just one more strip those little
bend the same way so that's where we're
going from here I'll end up cutting this
curve on the bandsaw but first let me
just Bolden up that line so I don't make
mistakes and cutting I'm gonna cut
outside of that line so again I mark the
cut like this but it's going to be
installed like this and so essentially
the process is just like I do for all
the other strips fit one end and then
work on fitting the other and so I'll
try and get it so it's fitting nicely
along this edge at one end trying to get
my registration marks here lined up so
that's to get the grain matching going
and then once it's good at one end or
close to good I'll leave a little leeway
from mistakes and then switch to the
other end and try and get this in fitted
in so it's just a matter of patience and
whittling away at it and nothing too
break out the block plane I do find it
useful use the bottom of the boat as a
work surface but if I go directly on the
bottom of the boat when I tried a plane
to the end I end up hitting the boat
don't want to do that so I just grab a
spare strip and lift up off the boat and
now I can start playing down towards
that line
you gonna bring it down closer the whole
length I was a little bit conservative
with my pants off cut so initially just
sort the strip in place try and see
where it's binding up first
as expected right out at the tip and I
can look at my bevel angle the feel for
how things are I'll have a whole lot of
room to change the length here right now
it's tight here but loose here in order
to get it tighter here I need to slide
the whole thing forward a bit and so
that means I need to remove material
from where it's tight all right now it
fits up in the very tip here but it's
starting to get tight back here so if I
drag my pencil along the keel line as I
try and push this new strip in I end up
with a mark along here showing this is
where it fits perfectly this is where it
basically doesn't fit at all and so I
want to do my shaving from here forward
and basically don't shave any beyond
this point it doesn't need to go any
beyond that point at this stage
so now it's fitting up to here do the
same drill so it fits up to here doesn't
fit there so I can remove material and
back here and move a little bit forward
so where it doesn't fit at all I do the
most strokes with the plane and where
I've just barely doesn't fit essentially
I only do one stroke of the play
all right now I'm at about the widest
point of the strip I'll get a little bit
more fitting here and then start at the
other end and I'll start working on the
other end so I'll just roughly clean up
this cut here so at this point I'm just
looking forward where it binds up in
shaving off the high spots winding up
right there and sort of right here at
the same time it was a gap right here so
I will trim a little bit more at the end
here I need to sharpen this tool
all right we're playing sharpen again
let's get back to it all right so now it
fits in this end this end I don't want
to work on the overall length for these
long tapers can sometimes help to just
back up the strip with another strip so
it doesn't flex away on that really
narrow tip
I want to get my grain marks here to
line up this is a task which just takes
patience taking small thin slices off at
a time
I'm just looking for where it looks
tight and moving material from that area
first and now on my marks here now I
could very easily make a piece it just
drops in almost the first try what makes
us take so long I didn't want to fit to
be really tight that's why it's such a
painstaking process if I just wanted
something to fill a gap up I could have
you know essentially cut to my pencil
line here and dropped it right in and
filled in the gap with schmutz and that
is a perfectly valid way of doing it
here I'm just trying to make it look
like I didn't do that so it's one step
at a time
patience fitting as you go
and hopefully it'll all fit in really
nice and we're done so we've got it
really well fitted at that end I'm going
to do the same at this end and I want to
get some marks here to serve as guides
for the line about 1/8 inch off and
length here and there's some tight
mostly hitting right in here now links
that length looks good or maybe a 32nd
often like there I have the OS
all right yeah it's pretty well so now
we'll put some glue on it and secure it
in place it's not perfect it's not bad
the gray pattern on this isn't that
distinctive so it's hard to see really
the book matching but you can see hints
of it here and there and did a pretty
good job of matching up the points of
these strips on each side not quite as
good at the stern I'm off by 3/4 of an
inch here so what causes the disparities
between the end of this strip coming in
here and the end of this strip coming in
here ideally I'd like to have them lined
up next to each other but what causes
that is a variety of factors if the
center line is a little bit off one way
or the other that will adjust where the
strip coming in from one side of the
other is going to hit it but also the
micro bootlegger sport has this chine
line going on here and so the number of
strips counting across here and how long
it takes to get from this edge to the
center line and from this edge to the
center line is very dependent on exactly
where these two lines are cut getting
these precisely the same is going to
control how closely these meet coming up
the side of the boat we
to the water line and I made a trim line
there and then I had to add more strips
and then trim it again and keep on
adding more strips so I had one two
three different places for small amounts
of error to occur and really the amount
of difference from this point to that
point remember when I'm planing away at
the strips I don't need to plane away
much to affect how far down the length
this grain alignment mark is we're
talking maybe a sixteenth of an inch or
even less between this edge and that
edge to create an error of you know one
inch there or instantly a quarter so it
doesn't take much to throw it off a
little bit micro bootlegger sports
unusual for most strip built designs in
that it has this chain here and so often
if you just start out at the right place
the shear line and are very good at
keeping things even as you come up and
get that centerline cut precisely it'll
be a lot easier to get a good alignment
there again this is just one of those
things to think about I don't I know
from experience that this will be
virtually unnoticeable just everything
seems to be coming down to the point
here and where exactly that point is the
eye just doesn't pick up on it and if
you don't like that answer this is the
bottom of the boat and so nobody's going
to see it so next episode will be
flipping the forms over and breaking the
forms off of the strips that way I can
go ahead and start stripping the deck
and I don't need to worry about having
to get the forms broken out of the hull
and the deck at the same time by having
broken out of the hull already I'll be
able to remove the hull when it comes
time to remove it and then easily remove
the deck forms by having full access to
those forms as well so it's
it's looking good I'm really pleased
with how it's coming out if you have any
questions please post them in the
I appreciate your likes your
subscriptions notifications sharing with
your friends share on Facebook support
me on patreon buy a t-shirt buy set of
plans that all supports the operation of
this channel lets me justify the time
it's been making these videos I do
appreciate your support
so until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Gluing the Shafts Together and Finishing

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 20:27
Gluing the Shafts Together and Finishing nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:27

I like to do most of the work before gluing the scarf on the shaft together. This just keeps the parts easy to handle while doing the work.

Since the paddle shaft is a bit oval, the scarf does not fit together in a perfect match, you will need to eyeball it a bit to make sure the two halves are straight and true before the glue sets up.

You can then finish shaping the shafts in the scarf area and start the finish sanding process. 

Coat everything with a coat of epoxy after it is all smooth. This serves as a solid base for the protective coating.

Before the final finish coats give the whole paddle a through sanding up to at least 220 grit sandpaper.

In this case I use a 2-part automotive style clear coat that is available from Amazon, but you can also use a more traditional marine spar varnish.

The finished is lightweight and strong. I prefer the feel of wood in my hands over fiberglass or carbon fiber. Especially in the winter it feels warm and comfortable.

Happy Paddling!

Assembling the scarf on the feathered
paddles is a little bit tricky since the
angles are weird things don't line up in
a logical obvious way so the best thing
you can do is do some dry fits play with
it a little bit and what it's going to
come down to is just eyeballing it
trying to see that the paddle is
straight a couple things I try and do I
try and line up the tips of the cut here
with the end of the scarf cut here
approximately the tip of this broken off
a little bit but that will give you a
rough guide and then trying to sort of
split the difference on any error on one
side versus the other what makes these
particularly tricky is the shafts aren't
square so their dimensions through the
spine are different than their dimension
across the shaft so things don't line up
in the way you might imagine so the
first thing I do is just scuff up this
scarf cut with a little bit of sandpaper
just just open the pores a little bit
make it so the glue is gonna adhere
better and then just put it together and
you'll find that there's sort of a wider
side and a narrower side if you put the
clamp on the narrower side it tends to
want to squirt it out so if you stick it
on the wider side and this is due to the
fact that it's at a non 90-degree angle
and again we're going to try and line up
these points here a little bit
just trying to look at the amount of
wood showing on the scarf he ever see
his mountain wood on the scarf here try
and make that fairly even I'm gonna just
look down the shaft try and see if it's
straight and if it needs a little
adjusting so again I'm doing this dry
right now just to get a feel for it
you know once the glue gets on it's
gonna be a whole lot slippery er and
harder to have everything stay in place
so just getting a feel for what you're
gonna have to accomplish once the glue
is on there makes life better you can
then take a pencil and make a few marks
here just to help you get a sense of
where it's gonna have to go when you put
it back together then we'll use a
waterproof wood glue and it on here
spread it around a bit
and see it's much slippery right now
and then wants to slide lengthwise
once you get it lined up put it aside
and come back and check it in a few
minutes make sure it's still straight
now that the glue is dry I want to blend
in the scarf joint here so basically I'm
just going to aim down towards the flats
here so take this point down to the flat
here take this point down to the flat
there and likewise all the way around
and then start blending in the radius so
I have a radius here I'll start blending
that in and radius here start blending
that in and just merge it all together
once I've got the scarf rounded out or
at least roughly rounded out I want to
start refining the overall shape of the
shaft and I'd like it egg shaped so I'd
like when you grip the paddle to the
knuckles would be a little bit narrower
on that side than it is on the palm side
it's already a little bit oblong in that
it's thicker this way than it is this
way so it's wider or taller than it is
thick so it's got an oval shape which
will help index you the hand to more
obvious where the blade orientation is
going to be but also it's just a little
bit more comfortable if it's a little
bit egg-shaped and a little bit narrower
so this part of the hand is in the
narrower spot and this is a little bit
beefier spot so the first thing I'm
doing is I'm just going to go ahead and
so concentrate on that side of the
paddle with the plane so I'm tapering it
in slightly towards the back face of the
paddle that's being the back face front
face so I'm tapering it slightly towards
the back face then once that's tapered
in there now I can start working on
getting rid of any sharp edges so again
I used two one inch diameter round over
bit half inch radius to start this round
over but I've got inch and a quarter by
inch and an eighth here so it left some
flat spots top bottom left right I want
to get rid of those flat spots so I'm
just going to start blending that
a little bit and I find a variety of
tools actually worked pretty well for
this right now I've got a Nicholson rasp
the block plane works one of these
shinto wood rasps works pretty nice and
I have these Japanese float style planes
that's all depending on which wood
you're working on some will work better
than others
so I like to have them all out and I'll
sometimes they'll just change because
I'm bored I want to get rid of the flat
spot on the top edge here in the bottom
edge and this will all blend in a nice
smooth curve Sitka spruce is a tough
wood and as a result it does get a
little bit of tear out it'll pay
attention to the grain
the final arbiter of whether you've
shaped it well is if it feels good to
the hand that's the only thing that's
really going to matter in the long run
is if it feels good to your hand because
your hands going to be touching this all
the time you're using it and if it feels
good it is good
I found one of the better ways of
getting a really round shaft or smoothly
rounded shaft is the shoeshine method
I'm going to start with some 50 grit
here and work up to higher grits and
you'll see with how it goes
so I ended up putting two coats of epoxy
on all the blades and the paddle shafts
just to make sure I had a good level
surface there get that sanded smooth and
it'll look really nice and the epoxy is
like the best primer you can put on the
shaft as far as something that clear
coats will bond to really well and bonds
the wood really well so at this point
I'm going to sand everything smooth get
it ready for the clear coat I could use
a varnish on it but I'm planning on
using the same two-part rattle key and
stuff that I used on the micro
bootlegger sport I think it'll be a good
tough finish for the paddles lasts a
long time and it gives me a chance to
actually use something that I've used
that product on and see for myself
really how well at last I've only used
that for customer products before so
that's my plan and the good a good teach
one nice and it finished should be a
good place to start applying that clear
coat so I will start at a 120 to level
the surface and work on left with the
power face of blade first that will be
the easiest to just get leveled down
I'll do some power sanding on the back
but with all the contours the power
saying there's not quite as effective
where I need to get into the details a
little bit more I'll crank down the
speed on the power of Sanders so I don't
end up burning through this epoxy
finished and then from there I'll go on
to hand sanding and I'll do the 120 and
then go to 220 you'll see I've got some
little clamps here on my sawhorses it
just sort of tame the paddle so I don't
have to hold on to it while I'm singing

Glassing the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 20:06
Glassing the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:06

It is amazing how much strength a layer of 2-ounce fiberglass will add to the wood. Between the two and with the cord around the edge the paddle blade can absorb a lot of abuse.

I can get two layers out of the width of the fabric. I cut all the pieces to size as well as some extra pieces to add more strength to the tips. 

Again some heat will help the fabric absorb the resin for a nice clear layup. Squeegee off the excess to keep the blade lightweight. After squeegeeing the fabric should not be glossy, the matte finish indicates the fabric is tight against the wood and not floating up.

After the wet-out coat of epoxy has set up I apply a fill coat that fills the weave of the fabric and starts making the paddle shiny.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop i'm Nick Schade and i'm working
on building kayak paddles in this
episode i'll glass the blades and
reinforce them I do the glassing in a
couple stage process first I glass the
whole blade then I added a little bit of
reinforcement to the tips and I do this
in two steps so I don't get air trapped
in between the glass I found with a
tight weave on the two ounce clasp it
attempts to trap air in between the
layers so doing it in a several stage
process I find to get less trapped air
so let's get to it the cut ends of the
cord saturated in epoxy or hard and
stiff and rough I want to blend those
down into the shape of the paddle blade
so I'm just gonna use a sharp utility
knife just Whittle those down this gives
you an idea of how tough this cord is
it's pretty tough stuff epoxy saturated
nylon I'm doing this while the epoxy is
still fairly soft
the next day after wetting out this cord
so it's still fairly easy to carve as
the epoxy sets up harder and harder this
will be harder to do so it's worthwhile
doing this while the epoxy is still
relatively soft it's trying to blend
those ends in
this is a two ounce glass I'm using I'll
put one layer on each side over the
whole blade and then those where I want
them reinforced more I will add some
extra layers down at the tip and making
seven paddles here so I need 28 pieces
so each one of these is 2 pieces this
will be the extra for the tip this edge
has a salvaged edge on it basically the
loose threads are sewn off so they don't
come unraveling and I'll end up putting
those up at the throat end of the blade
just to have a cleaner edge where the
glass ends where it gets on to the shaft
I'm applying a little epoxy with the cab
Asil in it to thicken it up around the
edge because the transition between that
cord and the wood sometimes there's a
little gap there and I just want
something that's going to naturally flow
in there and fill that up and stay there
so they don't get bubbles I'm just
applying it around the edge and I'll
squeegee it around
two on both sides
so now when I put the glass on that cab
asil will fill up any gaps are there the
trickiest part of the glass in here is
right here around the throat where it
goes in deeply this 2 ounce glass
doesn't really like to conform to shapes
as well as the 4 ounce it does okay with
most of the shape on these paddles but
doesn't work so well on a boat because
the shape of a boat is just too much
contour going on it won't this 2 ounce
glass won't conform to it so just put a
little bit on enough to hopefully get
the whole thing wet out laughs it might
need a little bit more and I'll take and
trim off the excess glass
and hit it with the heat gun to get the
bubbles out
this again this two ounce cloth doesn't
like giving up the trapped air and it
either so a little bit of heat gun to
lower the viscosity of the resin up in
here wants to bridge so squeegee off
most of the excess into the Grunch cup
and then I'm going to soak up the excess
remaining excess with the paper towel
this is a very poor man's vacuum bagging
just sponging up any excess make sure
it's down into that contour it over to
the other side
takes a little while for this a resin to
soak into the cloth
so I heat it up and give the whole thing
the whole face the coating of epoxy the
heat lowers the viscosity the epoxy and
then spreading it over the whole thing
will make it so I don't have as
noticeable an edge between the part that
I'm actually working on right now and
the rest of the blade is starting to
fill a weave out here on the rest of the
blade I take my triangle of glass
lay it down across here put that on a
little bit more heat to get
squeegee off the excess resin
and just give it a little inspection so
while I still have the feathered paddle
split in half not yet glued together
into full-length paddles I'm gonna do a
full coat on the blade it's just easier
to get the paddle in a position where it
will dry without drips while I have it
separated so I can turn it up on edge
and then any drips will tend to sheet
off and it should be the smoother finish
when I'm done I'm using a little bit
different epoxy this time it levels out
best with a blowtorch as opposed to
using the heat gun so you'll see me
using the blowtorch sauna
so that's it for this episode in the
next episode we'll be finishing the
paddles it might take me a little while
to get the next episode out it's cold
out and I want to do the finish work
outside I'm going to be putting on a
spray clear coat automotive style clear
coat and I'd rather not do that inside
if I can avoid it and being cold outside
and kind of windy I'm waiting for a good
day when I can go out and get that clear
coat applied so thanks for your patience
if it takes a little while that's what's
going on in the meantime I've started
building a petrol right now it's all
stripped up and I just stained it and
I'm about ready to glass if you want to
keep abreast of what I'm doing in more
real-time I have an Instagram and
Facebook page and I tend to post stuff
there a little bit more frequently just
updates on what's going on if you like
the looks of this kayak paddle project
and would like to do your own it's a
really fun project and I do sell plans
I'll provide a link in the description
to my webpage where you can purchase the
plans it's a fun project you can knock
it off in a couple weekends and have
yourself a really beautiful paddle sails
of plans is one of the ways I support
producing these videos if you'd like to
support the production of these videos
you can buy plans or you can just like
the video share it with your friends get
on to Facebook or Instagram and follow
my page is there anything like that this
really does support the process of
making these videos and any support you
can provide is really appreciated if
you're really into it I do have a
patreon page and you can go over there
and provide a little monetary support
any kind of support greatly appreciated
so until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Reinforcing the Edges

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:52
Reinforcing the Edges nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 18:52

I regularly bounce my paddles off rocks. I want a rugged and durable edge to absorb the abuse. I have found that para-cord saturated in epoxy resin is very tough. While you can't exactly cut down a tree with these paddles, they will handle paddling in rock gardens or doing whitewater.

I use a small rasp to start a shallow groove around the whole perimeter of the blade. This just provides a place to hold the cord until the epoxy bonds it to the paddle.

I use some heat and liberally brush epoxy on the cord to maximize the penetration of resin into the cord.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm making
kayak paddles.
in this episode I'll do some finish
sanding on the blades and then put a
reinforced nylon edging around the blade
this parachute cord edging makes a
really rugged blade and I think it's a
good addition to a wooden paddle so
let's get to it
I'm gonna end up reinforcing this edge a
little bit of nylon cord so this cord
will go around this edge it makes a
really tough strong binder around the
edge of the panel but it's a little
tricky to have stay in place while
you're trying to mount it you've got to
get it glued on there saturated and it's
gonna get covered with fiberglass and I
want to keep that centered on that edge
it's basically the diameter of this cord
is the same as the width of the blade at
the edge right there so I want to keep
it centered on there so I'm using a
little fine rasp here and just going
along and putting a little cove right
along that edge and that way when I go
to put the cord on there it'll have a
place to lay and stay centered while the
glue is drying
the basic process here is we want to
secure this cord in place settled in
that groove and make it ready to glue in
so what I do is I start with a little
bit of tape and I secure one end in
stick that tape well to the cord and now
I want to prepare another piece of tape
the other end and I'm going to pull the
cord tight all the way around the edge
and that groove I made with the rasp
should hold the cord you want some
tension on this cord and then tape it
down at the other end now I'm going to
take a little bit of superglue put it
right up here at the end those sides
give a moment for that glue to soak into
the cord and then give it a little
spritz with the CA glue accelerant glue
is dry you can pull off the tape and I'm
just going to cut off the excess cord
right here if the cord comes on down a
little bit just place it right back in
the groove
so I'm gonna coat the whole blade with
epoxy the reason for putting on epoxy is
to saturate this parachute cord I want
to get that nylon cord completely
saturated with epoxy it's hard to get
epoxy on the cord and not get it under
the rest of the blade if I only get the
blade partially coated I didn't watch
eNOS so by coating the whole blade I'll
get an even coat on it
and I want it to soak in so right now is
fairly cool in my shop even low
viscosity epoxy has a hard time running
into the braid of the parachute cord so
I'm going to heat it up and that will
make it so the epoxy is lower viscosity
and sucks in better
now I'm going to paint on epoxy and I
primarily want it on the cord so as they
brush it on and brushing it onto the
cord and I'm scraping it off the edge of
the cord that way most of the epoxy gets
drawn off the brush right at the cord
and you see I end up dripping a little
bit but I want to over saturate that's
really flood the cord with the resin to
make sure it's got plenty of resin on it
in doing this it's very likely the cord
will pop off a little bit just realign
it it might happen several times and
then I'm just going to get epoxy on the
rest of the blade just to make sure it's
fully saturated and now all again brush
some on the cord from the power face
side of the blade and again we're trying
to get
a lot of resin onto that cord
alright so now I'm going to give another
heat treatment to help lower the
viscosity that epoxy get it drawn into
that cord
as I do this you see the wood outgassing
a little bit as a wood heats up the air
trapped in the wood gets forced out of
the grain and bubbles up through the
epoxy that's not a necessarily a
desirable thing in itself but it does so
that the wood is getting warm and those
bubbles will get scraped off if I hit it
briefly with the heat you see the
bubbles pop but the wood is warm so it's
a driving air out of that grain so now
I'm going to just scrape off the excess
resin I don't want a whole lot of resin
on here I just want enough to saturate
that cord and then I'll take a rag and
get rid of any drips and sags excess
resin I'm going to try and avoid hitting
the cord itself any excess resin there I
want it to just get soaked in but I
don't want any drips
so that's it for this episode in the
next episode we'll fiberglass the blade
and get a fill coat on it so if you
liked this episode give me a thumbs up
if you're enjoying this whole series hit
subscribe if you're really into what I'm
doing here go over to my patreon page
and ship in a little bit every little
bit helps so once again thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Sculpting the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 18:04
Sculpting the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:04

This is the hardest part of the process. I use a right angle grinder to do some freehand shaping and then refine the shape with hand tools. I try to make the edges of the blade nice and thin to keep the paddle light, while leaving the central section of the blade full thickness for strength.

The most common mistake is to leave the blade too thick because you are scared to go too far and make it too thin. Don't be too much of a wuss about it, aim for 1/8" thick all the way around the edge with a nice smooth taper from the middle. The blade eventually gets reinforced with fiberglass which makes it very tough and strong.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and we're
working on making kayak paddles. so in
this episode I'm gonna start shaping the
blade I'll use some power tools to do
some rough shaping then start working
with some hand tools and finish up with
hand tools to get a really refined final
shape at this point the blade still has
that original taper that we cut into the
blade blanks it's about a half inch here
and tapers down to about a quarter inch
at this end and that's all the way
through the width of the blade this is a
pretty heavy blade right now I want to
take off quite a bit of weight I want
this taper to provide strength but I
don't need the full width all the way
out to the edge I'd like to get it down
to about 1/8 inch all the way around the
perimeter so that's two-and-a-half or
three millimeters something like that so
I'm just going to take and Mark around
this edge an eighth inch
people are generally afraid to take too
much wood off their paddle and end up
with a really heavy war-club obviously
you believe it thicker it's going to be
stronger my intention is to put
fiberglass on this and that's going to
give it a huge amount of strength so I
can take this down quite thin and still
have a strong paddle and have it be
lightweight I'm also gonna put a
reinforced edge all the way around it so
even though it's then it's gonna be a
good tough paddle so I want to mark that
eighth inch all the way around the
perimeter of all the blades
with the blades cut out and roughly
shaped it's now time to do the fine
shape and get it down where we want it
or at least a lot closer at this point
I've got the square edges left from the
shaft and it comes in at a sharp angle
here it's still quite thick back here so
I want to get it down to this eighth
inch thick mark that I made earlier and
I want to create a smooth transition in
the throat of the paddle here from the
back of the blade onto the shaft so
there's not a stress riser there again
this is going to get fiberglassed I want
the fiberglass to wrap smoothly around
that surface I want to continue this
radius down the shaft a bit on both
sides and then blend the blade up into
that so I'm going to be removing wood
from the blade to create the fillit I'm
gonna be removing wood from the shaft to
create the round over I don't want to
lose a lot of wood from the shaft
blending into that filler I want most of
the wood to be in the blade that I'm
removing so this is what it should look
like when I'm done with this process so
again I've got a nice smooth fill it up
in here the blade is about an eighth of
an inch thick both sides the radius of
this shaft continues down onto the blade
and again you can see the full with the
blade stock right in here but it quickly
rounds down to the thin shape of the
blade here in the middle of the blade is
just sort of crown slightly coming out
to eighth inch on either side I want
that all nice and smooth I'm using a
variety of tools for this the first
thing I'm doing is just starting to
round off this corner here and I'll use
a block plane or something like that
just to start to blend that in so when I
go to do this radius in here I don't
have that wood blocking my view of
what's going on so that radius is made
with the black plane and like this then
I'd take my right angle grinder and I've
got one of these nasty carbide I think
these are called the Galahad or
something like that right angle grinder
attachment and this is a coarse carbide
that really removes wood fast it has no
flex at all to it so it doesn't blend
well it tends to where you touch it it
cuts so I'm using that to remove most of
the wood in that little Philadelphia
tool here and I use this because it
removes a lot of wood really quickly
again it's not precision particularly
it's not going to do a fine job you know
it can with practice but that's not why
I'm using if I'm using it just to hog
the wood out and then I come in with my
other right angle grinder I've got 36
grit on here now you use that to start
to thin the blade down along the edges
here blending it in from the middle and
blending in whatever gouge I made with
the blue tool here and blending that
down to the side I use a couple
different tools to refine the shape in
here this microplane about a three
quarter inch diameter it's really nicely
up in there and I can use that to carve
away the wood and to start to blend this
in fare that out a little bit again I'm
trying not to cut into the shaft itself
I'm just trying to hit the darker wood
here and make a radius so it comes up
and smoothly connects with that surface
there the final shaping I'm doing with
this little luthiers plane it's got a
rounded sole on it and that again fits
right in there I'm looking to get rid of
all signs of the glue right in that seam
right there I also use a block plane to
come and refine this surface here ferret
out the right angle grinders again and
not very good at faring they're just
removing a lot of wood quickly and you
know I'd rather not use
the right angle grinders they take a lot
of dust in the air that's why I've got
the my dust collector here set up to try
and bring in a lot of that dust that I'm
making with the right angle grinder but
I can do a good job of fairing this down
again I'm aiming for that eighth inch
line I made along the edge send it down
all the way around and this makes the
blade lighter and makes it cut into the
water more smoothly and that will make a
really nice paddle so since I am using
the right angle grinder I have my set up
for working on this based around my dust
collection here that sawhorses and neat
aside I clamp the piece down to the
sawhorse over my dust collection so
hopefully most of the fine dust gets
immediately sucked into the dust
collector and I'm working on one side at
a time so I can clamp it either way and
work on this side comfortably it
wouldn't hurt for me to have this a
little bit higher but this is my
sawhorse height and so that's where I'm
going with again it's a matter of
getting rid of this excess wood in here
blending it into the shaft blending this
shaft down making everything nice and
smooth thin lightweight and still strong
so now I'm going to do some cleanup on
the backside here just blend it all in
nicely it's a little bit hard to do good
planing the way I had it when I was
doing the grinding over the dust
collection there so here I have the
cut-offs from some of the blanks it just
give me a good support and this way I
can get a plane on there and apply some
pressure before I do that I need to
reestablish my eighth inch thickness
line around the edge here because I'd
sanded it off in the prior step so I'll
just go once again draw a neat ditch
line out here so at this point I want to
get this blade nice and uniformly thick
get the blend in here really smooth and
make sure there's no to the flat spots
on the back face here and I'll use a
variety of tools to work on that I still
have the micro plane I've got a foam
block with some 16 80 grit sandpaper on
it there's some 80 grit sandpaper on the
sanding block the block plane I still
have my little
luthiers planed and get a variety of
rasp this is one of those Japanese flow
grasps Nicholson here see what it ended
up using a little rat tail file so
whatever I need to get into these shapes
and just blend everything together
right here at the throat of the blade
where this shaft and the blade converge
we want to blend this all together so
there's no sharp edges there and get
that the cedar of the blade here to plan
smoothly in to the shaft to the Sitka
spruce and get a nice rounded corner at
the throat of the blade here so I'm
using a variety of tools to get in there
and just blend that all in and the
rounded edge of sandpaper on a foam
block again 60 or 80 grit does a really
nice job getting right in there and that
will make a nice
and we'll do the same thing on the other
side so you see here it starts with a
square edge with straight edges on it
and we want to blend that into a nice
curved edge
so that's it for this episode so that's
it for this episode in the next episode
we'll do some finish sanding and put an
edging around the blade and if I'm lucky
I'll get some glass on the blades as
well we'll see how far we get in the
next episode if you enjoyed this episode
and learned anything give it a like or a
thumbs up share it with your friends and
subscribe to my youtube channel or
follow my Facebook page if you're really
into it I have a patreon page it
contributes to the production of these
videos and every little bit of support
helps so until the next episode thanks
for watching and happy paddling.

Gluing on the Blades and Initial Shaping

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:49
Gluing on the Blades and Initial Shaping nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:49

Even though the blades of these paddles may be feathered, they are still glued on straight and square on the shaft. It helps to cut away some of the shaft on the power face of the blade before gluing on the blades, but this is not required.

I use the Tite-Bond III to glue the blades on either side of the shaft. The thin end of the blade aligned with the tip of the shaft and the thicker end is towards the middle of the shaft. Some good long clamps are nice for this process, but you could wrap everything with string or stretch wrap to hold it all while the glue dries.

I use my thickness sander to flatten out the power face of the paddle, but you can do it with hand tools such as a spoke shave. Likewise with the back face of the blade. Here we are just working on the outer end of the blade at first.

When the flattening process is done I cut out the outline of the blade shape. You can use your favorite paddle as a pattern, just remember to flip the pattern over for each end of the paddle.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade I'm working on
a laminated kayak paddle in this episode
I'll glue the blades on and start rough
shaping the blade and shaft so I'll
start by saying the blade flat on the
front and then cut out the blade shape
and then work on starting to round over
the shaft so we'll get right to it now
we're ready to glue the blades on so I
have four blade halves here and I'll
take them off in pairs so this will be
prepare for one blade this will be the
pair for another blade and then we end
for end one and so now we have a fairly
closely matching set right there and
another fairly closely matching set
right here so we'll just give it a
little dry fit and I'm going to line up
the tips lightly clamp it here I'll line
up the butt end you can have it slightly
proud there and then it'll go like that
so now that we know it fits together we
will unclamp it put some glue on it
re clamp it up and do the next one
so I had my drum sander set up with 36
grit sandpaper and I've taken and
leveled out this surface here I gotten
the shaft even with the blades and the
blades flat all the way across so we
still have the curvature here it's just
that it's flat all the way across here
so 36 grit
I used that because it's very quick and
since I had that in place also I then
worked on leveling the back just from
the middle of the blade towards the tip
I've still got a quarter inch of
thickness here in these blades I'm
eventually going to get these down to
1/8 but I just want to start getting
that shape down so at the tip here is
flat all the way across on the back face
and the power face and that's what 36
grit I will replace the sanding paper on
this with 80 grit to just give that a
finer finish and then final sanding with
this will come much later after I've
done a lot more shaping
modern kayak paddle blades are
asymmetrical so you see here I've got a
bit of an angle on this blade it's the
tip is offset at a bit of an angle the
area in both sides of the centerline is
the same but the topside is pushed a
little bit out in the bottom side is
pushed a little bit in the theory being
there's as you put the paddle in the
water you're coming in at a bit of an
angle and this will create less torque
on the paddle as you start to apply
power you know in all honesty this
probably only really matters and really
high-performance paddlers Olympic level
paddlers and you know chances are they
don't care either
I find the the most common thing this
does just point out the newbies the
people that don't know how to kayak
first time with the paddle they'll often
end up with the paddle upside down you
know that's kind of a silly thing but
you know it's used to make fun of people
who don't know how to paddle I think a
symmetrical paddle would work just as
well for our modern needs but the style
these days is this asymmetrical paddle
has been that way for quite a while and
frankly I kind of like the look I think
it looks cool to be a little bit
asymmetrical so for an aesthetic reason
I go ahead and continue to do it but if
you want a symmetrical paddle go for it
don't let the fun not seize make fun of
you for it so I'm just taking this
template centering it on the blade and
then tracing the shape onto the paddle
in preparation for cutting this out
but as a consequence of the asymmetry we
want the left paddle and the right
paddle to be have the longer edge on the
same upper edge so this blade is
actually going to be over on the far end
like this
so this template should be flipped over
like that so I have an A and a B side
and I'm just making sure I flip the
template over before I trace it on so I
have a matched set of blades these rough
blades are a little bit narrower than my
template so what I'm gonna do is I'm
just gonna offset it so this side comes
out even over there and I'll offset it
equally the other way just putting the
centerline so it's on either side of
that accent strip and so that will work
just fine it's hard to see on the dark
so this is a half inch radius round over
a bit on the router so I conceivably
could make a one-inch diameter dowel
with this round over back the shafts of
these are 1 in 1/8 by 1 and 1/4 so this
doesn't quite round it over it ends up
with a little bit of a flat spot on each
face works out well as far as the
bearing bearing these a flat spot to
wrap run against if I tried to make a
dowel on this with this bearing it would
end up cutting into it over cutting on
the subsequent collects after the first
one I'm just starting to round these
over I'm bringing it as close to the
blade as I can the full-length shafts
straight shafts I can obviously just do
the whole thing from blade to blade here
I've got the scarf I don't want to come
too close to this scarf I want to keep
it square at the corners here so I can
do the blending together so I'll come
quite close to the scarf but I'll leave
the corners at the scarf itself
so these shafts have a good initial
shape they've got some flat spots on
them top and bottom left and right side
but it's a good starting point I'll do
some more work on refining the shape in
the long run I want to make sort of an
egg shape with the narrow part where the
knuckles are so again good starting
point and I'll blend these in by hand
when I did glue the scarfs up and up in
here I'll blend that into the back so
it's a good start onto the next step so
that about covers it for this episode if
you're enjoying this and you'd like to
build your own paddle I have plans
available there should be a link in the
description building a kayak paddle is a
fun project it's a fairly quick project
and there's a good introduction to some
of the skills you'll need if you want to
build your own boat
there's working with basic tools there's
some fiberglassing involved and it you
know it's something that you can get
done in a couple weekends and have
yourself a really beautiful thing that
works very well and it's a lot of fun
otherwise if you're not into that and
you just like watching the videos but
like to support me hit like share all
those things get the word out more
viewers is more support and I appreciate
all your support if you're really into
it I've got a patreon page again this
should be a link in the description so
in the next episode we'll be working
more on sculpting the shape of the blade
there's quite a bit of shaping to be
done getting the blade much thinner I
want to get it down to 1/8 inch thick
around the edges and have it all blended
together in a nice pleasing shape so
until then thanks for watching and happy

Preparing the Shafts - Scarfing and Tapering

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:11
Preparing the Shafts - Scarfing and Tapering nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:11

Most of the paddles I make are feathered. This means the blades at each end are at an angle relative to each other. This can relieve some stress on the wrist when paddling and help cut through a headwind.

This feathering is achieved by joining two ends of the shaft together in the middle with a scarf. By cutting the scarf at an angle you can achieve the desired angle between the two paddle blades. It is a little tricky, but once you are set up it is very easy to achieve.

I use a sled in the table saw that cuts a taper and holds the shaft material at an angle to the saw blade.

It looks nice to taper the ends of the shaft on either side. This is not required, it just makes the paddle look nicer.

A round over bit helps start make the shaft in to a nice comfortable oval.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm working
on making some kayak paddles today I'm
going to cut down the shafts cut some
scarfs on them taper them and hopefully
glue on the paddle blades we'll see how
far we get so I have these uh shaft
blanks here really be good if I had a
jointer I could just clean up one edge
and then run them to through the table
saw get them right down to where I need
them but I don't have a jointer I could
hand playing them but right now I don't
even have a decent vise so I'm just
gonna run them through the table saw
basically cut them in half hopefully
that'll make establish a fairly straight
edge on them and then I'll cut them to
the appropriate width so I put a thinner
blade in my table saw here so I don't
end up with the kerf wasting a lot of
wood that gives me a little bit more
leeway as far as correcting some of the
misalignment in the laminations so we'll
see how it goes
so when he ripped this long shaft down
to get to blank to get two shafts one of
them sprung a little bit you see there's
they're touching down at the ends but
there's a gap in the middle and so this
one here is a little bit curved
I would being a natural material and end
up with stresses in it that don't appear
until everything's all cut up not sure
this one's really straight enough to
make a one-piece paddle I'll probably
end up cutting it in half and then
scarfing it back together again and use
it for myself by scarfing it I can sort
of adjust for some of that curvature a
little bit take some of the curvature
out might still not be straight enough
for a customer paddle but really it's
going to be a fine paddle regardless
it'll just look a little wonky and I'll
make a paddle for myself with it I'm
gonna make these paddles 210 centimeters
long I find that's a good length for
most sea kayaking many people will have
a paddle substantially longer that just
makes it harder to use the leverage on
it is working against you so I'm just
going to take lop these off to length
the unfeathered paddles are using one
long piece of wood for their shaft so
I'm just going to cut these two lengths
with the feathered paddles where I have
a scarf in the middle I will use the
scarf to determine the length so first
I'm just going to cut off the rough end
on each of these
I'm going to tea for the end of the
shaft so it narrows down at the end here
so it's full width up at the butt of the
blade and goes down to about the width
of the spline in the end of the blade
you don't have to do this here's one
where I just left it full with the whole
way down it still looks good I think the
taper just kind of looks cool this an
added step doesn't change the function
of the paddle at all it's just an
aesthetic thing I have a sled here for
the table saw goes in here like that I'm
gonna use this to do some tapering so
I've got a fence that I can adjust on
here I'll use the same sled for my
scarfs I can adjust the angle I'd make
the taper on right here so I want to
make a taper that 16 inches long that
comes back to here so I don't want it to
cut it all back at the 16 inch mark so
the width of these is about like that
sometimes gonna pivot it around there
and now that the tip here I want to
leave the center supplying fully full
with but I want a taper way the Sitka
spruce on either side so out at the end
I want this to taper way to essentially
nothing so looking here I'm going to
place this so it cuts right there
well this back here is that that mark
give it so leave a little bit of a sit
this showing
so the scarfs gonna be an 8 to 1 scarf
and that means for every inch of width
there's gonna be 8 inches of length
scarves can be a variety of different
tapers so I could do a 12 to 1 scarf on
here which would be stronger but I've
used these paddles a long time never
busted a scarf using an 8 to 1 scarf so
I'm just gonna stick with that so I'm
just gonna lay it down here parallel to
that line it doesn't need to be perfect
so if the fence set up to an 8 to 1
scarf if I put the first shaft in like
this with the spine up and then the
other half of the shaft in like this
with the spine horizontal and glued
those two pieces together I've turned
the piece 90 degrees and as a result
when I glue those two pieces together
I'll get a paddle with a 90 degree
feather not many people want a 90 degree
feather these days most people want
something like 60 degrees or 45 degrees
some people want even less in order to
accomplish that I have here
a spacer cut at an angle and this is an
angle of 22 and 1/2 degrees which is
half of 45 I put this in here and now
put this piece in cut this piece like
that and cut the other shaft like that
with the spine horizontal I have
subtracted 22 and 1/2 degrees from each
cut and as a consequence I will get a 45
degree feather
so we've taken 90 degrees minus 22 minus
another 22 which is 45 so I just want to
set up the spacers so they're holding it
at that angle and then when I go to cut
it I'm gonna run this end of the piece
out to the end of the cut here and then
clamp it in place then with the other
shaft I will take and flip it cut it the
other direction clamp it in place and
cut that one like that so it's a pretty
simple process we get that angle by
putting these spaces in so you could do
the same thing by angling the saw blade
tilting the blade work just as well
no trickier but I have it worked out
with my little guy here so if I want to
right hand feather I do it like this if
I want a left hand feather I do it like
that and then it's just a matter of
figuring out what angle for that spacer
I want in there so now I'm just going to
adjust the clamps so I get it easy to
clamp in there so now I'm just going to
adjust the clamps so I get it easy to
clamp in there
so by cutting a test scarf I can figure
out how long the scarf ends up being so
when I go to cut the length of the
feathered paddles
I will get the right length paddle when
I'm all done so this is about 28
centimeters long so that means I need to
add half of that to each half of the
paddle so if I'm doing a 210 centimeter
paddle each half piece is going to be
105 plus 14 so plus the length half the
length of the scarf so the length I want
each blank is half the length of the
paddle plus half the length of the scarf
so that gives me as if it was butted
together Plus now this taper had it on
there so for a 210 again for 210
centimeter paddle I'll take half of that
205 and I will add half the length of
the scarf so the 28 centimeters scarf so
I'll take 14 centimeters as 1/2 the
length of the scarf and add that to the
105 so that is 119 so I'll measure this
out to 119 so that's right there and
right there and we'll cut off that
so now if I clamp these together you go
to get a little weird we line up the
points of the scarf and just try and
make it as straight as possible the
clamp on that and we're right at 210 so
you see how these aren't quite at 90
degrees there's some other weird angle
if the blade comes out this way and on
that way on the other end that'll be at
45 degrees so that's one set of shafts
ready to accept the blades so I'm just
gonna write on here to 10:45 write my
own paddle I want a 60-degree feather so
I have a 15 degree wedge here I'll put
that in and that will take 15 off of
each for a total of 30 so 90 minus 30 is
60 degrees so we'll do this one flat
now comes a really tricky part with the
feathered paddle you want to make it so
that angle is less than 90 degrees
between one blade and the other and
there's two choices on this there's so
this happens to be the the 60-degree
paddle so one side 60 degrees which is
30 degrees less than 90 degrees and the
other side is 30 degrees greater than 90
degrees so it is possible to put the
blades on this such a way that is
feathered at 120 degrees and we don't
want that that rule would require over
rotating your wrists and making it
really uncomfortable so what you want to
do is hold the paddle you hold your
shaft and the way you think you're gonna
hold it and remember the blades are
coming out perpendicular to this taper
so I put a little you mark here showing
the way the paddle blade is going to
curve so we're gonna put a curved paddle
blade on this something like this so
it's curved this way so it's going to go
on here like this so I'm putting a
little u mark showing which way that's
going to curve so we imagine that
they're glued to the side of that taper
and then we hold that and this is a
right hand feather so I'm going to use
my right hand and rotate my wrist up now
at this end
I want the blade to be cupped backwards
as well so again I've got a little C
mark on there or you mark showing which
way that's going to go so we want that u
facing towards the back facing so the
power face is facing towards your back
so when I rotate from here with the U
mark they're facing back and then I cock
my wrist back
I want that you mark on this end to be
facing backwards as well so you get
those marked on there and the best way
to do it is just pick it up clamp it
together just loosely clamp it together
like this
just give it a try if you're finding you
have to over rotate in order to get that
you mark in the right direction you know
you've got it wrong the unfeathered
paddle is easy we want to just make sure
they're both facing the same direction
so now we've got the marks in all the
shafts now I want to draw on the curve
of the blade so I'm grabbing that same
template I've used all along for marking
that curve and I'm just going to draw
that on here make sure we're following
the same curvature as indicated by our
little mark so that we just went and
figured out so I'm holding the tip and
the tip rate up even
like that so I'm sure they're facing the
same direction so this part above the
line is going to be cut off we don't
need to do this now but it makes it a
little bit easier to align the blades if
we don't have that material there and it
saves some time when we go to shape the
blades so I'm just going to cut outside
that line and get rid of that
so that's enough for this episode in the
next episode I'll glue the blades on and
start shaping them I do offer plans for
these paddles which include the profile
of the blade and different blade sizes
long narrow short fat as well as the
curvature and details on how to scarf
the shaft together it ends up with a
slightly different blade configuration
than what I'm showing here since I made
the plans I've refined my technique a
little bit what's shown in the plans
works really well it's a nice system
it's a little harder to make but I'm
detailing in this video is a little bit
easier so you could buy the plans and
then build it as shown in a series of
videos offering plans for the paddle and
the boats that I build it's just one way
I financed the videos I'm putting out
here on YouTube and Facebook another way
I financed it is through monetizing the
videos and the interest of that share
these videos like them all that makes
them more visible which makes it more
likely I'll get a better monetization on
it if you really like these videos and
you'd like to support them more directly
I have a patreon page and you can go
there and support me at various levels
every little bit helps I really
appreciate it so until the next video
thanks for watching and happy paddling.

Cutting the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:51
Cutting the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 15:51

I use a jig I made for the band saw that helps cut a curved blade, but you can just mark the curves onto your blade blanks and make the cuts free hand. 

The blades are thicker at one end and thinner at the other. I alternate the which end is thick and thin so I move consistently through the blank and so I will have a symmetrically matching set for each end of the paddle. You will need to cut at least 4 of these blades.

hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm working
on making a feathered kayak paddle so
this is your standard kayak paddle and
actually some of them will be feathered
some will be unfeathered but essentially
it's a process for making any kind of
laminated paddle or or whatever so in
this episode I'm going to work on
cutting the blade blanks down into blade
pieces so a couple things I have a jig I
make that is a quick and easy way to cut
the shape of the blades into a nice
consistent curve and so I'm going to
make that jig and then get the paddle
blanks ready to go and then start
cutting some of the blade pieces so
thanks for tuning in and hope you enjoy
now I have a blank cut to length this is
a 16 inch long blank so I'm going to cut
blades out of it kind of like this so
these are pre curved blades this happens
to be a 19 inch long blade but that's
the kind of blade I want to cut out of
it so why at one end narrow at the other
end and pre-curved if you look at the
offcut here I laid out the grain so it
is kind of a book match so you can just
make out on the grain here that it comes
out then comes back in I want to have
the curve of this come and be so the
grain at the wide point in the middle
and the narrow point at the end so like
that so here's the narrow and it's wider
down here so you want the curve of the
blade to curve from here kind of like
that so it starts out here where the
grain is narrow coming close together
and then as it goes towards the middle
of the blade it cuts deeper into it
where the grains a little bit wider and
then as it comes back to the end it is
again narrow so when I set up to do the
cut the blades I'm gonna cut the
curvature this way and that's just an
aesthetic thing it doesn't need to be
that way but that's just the way I've
decided kinda looks nice so that's what
I'm gonna set up to do so here I have a
pattern for a blade for that curvature
again wide if the butt-end narrow with
the tip end and this is thicker at the
tip end and it actually needs to be I'll
end up shaving this down more but it
just gives me some room to deal with
misalignment so
a quarter inch here about half an inch
here so I'm just going to trace this
pattern on starting at the very tip so I
got a line there barely visible in the
video and now we're going to take and
swap this in firend
and retrace it so just line that line
back up again and then keep flipping it
back and forth
all right so I've marked it all out and
I should be able to get 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 blades out of it each paddle is going
to use 2 blade 2 of these at each end so
it's going to take 4 and so I should get
2 full paddles out of there plus an
extra blade we'll see if I have a use
for the extra blade but it just gives me
a chance to screw up a little bit and
have a spare so I made a blade cutting
jig on my CNC machine that consists of
essentially a fence this will be the
curve for the 16 inch blade the saw
blade goes right in here and then this
will be the sled where I put the blank
so the blanks go in like this and get
clamped down like that and ride up
against this that's kind of like that
first thing I want to do is to just make
this clamp nice and secure I'm gonna put
some self-adhesive sandpaper on here
just some really core of stuff this is
60 grit and that'll make it so when I
clamp this down the blank won't move
also I'll put some screws through these
holes to just create the clamping
pressure to hold that in place so the
fence piece that's attached to the fence
such the blade will fit in that little
notch and we'll just put some clamps on
it to hold it there and you want to have
it set so it's pretty much even with
this surface here good starting point
then this piece will just run straight
along there so make sure the clamps
the way there's some center fearing a
little bit
now obviously you could have made these
freehand without my little jig here but
you see the jig does speed things up
quite a bit you know if you don't have a
you could actually cut each of these
laminations separately into individual
thin pieces and glue those up using a
you know Sabre saw something like that
if you don't have the bandsaw to pre-cut
those curved pieces the bandsaw is
really nice and this jig makes things go
a lot quicker but obviously you could do
this process with some other tools and
end up with the same result might take a
little bit longer but the final paddles
not going to be any worse for it if you
have different set of tools that you
want to do it with so thanks for
watching this episode in the next
episode we'll cut the shafts to size
taper them cut the scarf in them if they
need it and hopefully get the blades
glued on so if you're liking this kayak
paddle build and you'd like to see more
videos like it please support the
channel by subscribing to it liking this
video sharing my videos with other
people and if you're really into it go
over to my patreon page chip a little
bit of money in to support the process
of making these videos it really helps a
lot and I appreciate your support so
until the next video thanks for watching
and happy paddling